Italian Pasta Classics - Aglio Olio e Peperoncino

Photo: NK 

Welcome to Part II of our Italian Pasta Classics series, where we share the very best in traditional pasta dishes for your viewing and eating pleasure.

Check out Part I HERE.

Today, we want you to know about Aglio Olio e Peperoncino - or pasta with Olive Oil, Garlic and Crushed Red Pepper. This rustic, peasant meal has been claimed by much of Southern Italy. A few sources believe it originated in Abruzzo, but the jury is still out. 

Let's just agree that this ever so simple dish belongs to the nation itself, and that in the pantheon of authentic pasta recipes, it is most certainly one of the greats.

Anchovy haters: be brave.
The anchovy fillets melt into the oil as you warm it and become virtually undetectable. If you use good quality imported anchovy fillets, ideally packed in oil, I can assure you that the finished dish will have absolutely no fishy taste. The anchovies themselves lend a complexity to the flavors that is, I believe, absolutely essential. Still, you are more than welcome to make this recipe without them, but I happen to think you'll be missing out! Some (questionable) recipes also call for grated parmigiana or pecorino, but I don't recommend it.

You could make this dish with regular spaghetti, linguine, or any other long pasta. We opted for Spaghetti alla Chitarra. Cut on an implement called the Chitarra (it is strung with wire much like the eponymous guitar), the resulting pasta takes the form of long, thin ribbons with square, rather than rounded edges. Why make Aglio Olio e Peperoncino? It is easy, fast, delicious and cheap! Feeding a family of four for well under dollars 10 is no problem with this recipe. 
Buon appetito!

 ~This meal was made in loving memory of Grandma Peg who will be dearly missed. 

Photo: NK 

Aglio Olio e Peperoncino
Serves 4 

Ingredients:
1 Lb Spaghetti or other long pasta (we used Spaghetti alla Chitarra)
6 Tablespoons of Extra Virgin Olive Oil
7 Anchovy fillets packed in oil (imported) 
7 medium or large Garlic Cloves, minced
1/4 -1/2 teaspoon Crushed Red Pepper (less if you prefer mild spice)

2/3 Cup Italian Parsley, most of it finely chopped, a few sprigs reserved for garnish
Approximately 1/3 Cup Pasta Water
Salt
Black Pepper

Method:
1. Set a pot of salted pasta water to boil and then cook the pasta according to package instructions until it is almost al dente. Drain, reserving about a 1/2 cup of pasta water. 

2. In a very large skillet, warm the olive oil over a medium flame. Add the anchovy fillets and let them cook until they dissolve fully into the oil. You can use a wooden spoon to stir and help them along. 

3. Once anchovies have fully dissolved you can add the garlic. Lower the heat to low so that garlic does not burn. Add the crushed red pepper as well as the black pepper. Cook the garlic for a few minutes (about 3) taking care not to burn it. 

4. Add about a 1/3 cup pasta water to the pan. Add the cooked pasta, and toss on the parsley. Turn up the heat a bit and toss the pasta in the skillet for 1 or 2 minutes until everything is coated. Season with additional black pepper and taste for salt. Add more only if needed. Serve immediately with a sprig of parsley and enjoy!

Back To My Roots - Pasta con Cavolfiore

Conchiglie con Cavolfiore, Simple, Fast and Satisfying, Photo: NK

I grew up as an only child.  While I'm very lucky to have an amazing half brother and half sister, I never lived with them, and I am the sole child of my mom and dad. My mom's an only child herself, and my dad had just one sibling. What am I getting at? I grew up feeling like my family was small. 

But that's really not the truth, as I was reminded the other day at my cousin's lovely wedding on Long Island. My immediate family may be pretty compact, but I think I never really realized how large my extended family is until they were all in one big room together. Our numbers are thanks in part to my maternal grandfather's prolific siblings and all their children and grandchildren - one of whom is my cousin Laura, the beautiful bride we had gathered to celebrate that day. 

My Pop Pop was one of 6 children born to Sicilian Immigrants who originally settled in the Lower East Side of Manhattan before hopping the East River to Brooklyn and Queens. This recent wedding, filled with people that I don't see nearly enough of, definitely brought back warm memories of my departed grandpa, and I left what was a fantastic evening feeling really invigorated. I had people! Lots of them. And we all had such fun together.

The next day, on a bit of a family-togetherness high, I was struck by the overwhelming urge to cook something to celebrate my Italian heritage. Ok, this happens a lot - but I wanted it to be something to honor my grandpa, my spicy Sicilian bloodline, and our family's proud peasant beginnings three generations removed. Ours is in no way a unique American story, but something to be celebrated nonetheless.  

Photo: NK 

I decided on one of the many simple dishes that can be found in Italy - Pasta con Cavolfiore, aka: Pasta with Cauliflower. I know, I know - it doesn't sound terribly exciting, but you'll be surprised at how its classic, clean flavor, beautifully understated, is actually quite satisfying. This dish also takes me back to growing up and to my mom's cooking. She is superb in the kitchen, but as a kid, with the exception of meatballs once in a while, dinner was nearly always Pasta with a Vegetable. Pasta with Broccoli, Pasta with Cauliflower, and on, and on. This type of largely vegetarian low-cost eating was probably a function of our less than ideal financial circumstances back then, but I didn't know the difference. I didn't feel like I was missing anything  - because I wasn't. This is the type of food that The Greatest Generation was reared on - simple, healthy, and cheap. 

My great Aunt Mae makes a to-die-for version of Pasta with Cauliflower. She serves hers with toasted breadcrumbs on top after painstakingly trimming the Cauliflower florets into perfectly uniform bits. Pasta con Cavolfiore actually originated on the Southern Italian mainland, but it is very popular in Sicily. Here, we'll be using Conchiglie, or Shell Shaped Pasta. Please don't be scared off by the Anchovies in this recipe. They totally melt and disappear into the oil providing a non-fishy, subtle flavor that works so well in this and many dishes. Husband (the Anchovy-hater) had no idea. Buon Appetito!

NK's Conchiglie con Cavolfiore 

Serves 2-3

Cooks Note: Be sure to chop & prepare all ingredients before you start to cook

Ingredients:
1 large Head of Cauliflower

1/2 Lb of Shell Shaped Pasta, size is your choice

Salt 

Pepper 

1/4 Cup finely chopped Italian Parsley (or optionally, toasted fresh grated Breadcrumb)

3 small Garlic Cloves, very thinly sliced

5 Anchovy Fillets packed in Oil 

Fine Quality Olive Oil (about 2 Tablespoons plus more for drizzling)

1 teaspoon Crushed Red Pepper (or 1 teaspoon dried Red Chile chopped into small bits)

Method:

Remove the Cauliflower base and allow the Cauliflower head to separate into bite-sized Florets. Pick apart Cauliflower with your hands to help it along, and finally, give it a quick rough chop to achieve a uniform size so the Cauliflower cooks evenly.

Boil water in a medium sauce pan with a good amount of Salt. Add Cauliflower Florets and cook them several minutes until they are tender but not mushy. About 4 minutes should do it. The final texture is really up to you. I generally enjoy my veggies more al dente than the next guy. Once finished, drain the Cauliflower through a colander set atop or inside a large heatproof bowl. You'll want to reserve all of your boiling liquid. Set Cauliflower Florets aside and return liquid to the sauce pan or larger pan to boil your Pasta. Add extra water if needed. Return Liquid to a boil and cook your Pasta Shells as directed on the box until Pasta is done. Remember, al dente is always best!

While Pasta is cooking, set a large skillet over a a medium-low flame. Pour in about 2 Tablespoons of Olive Oil, the Garlic, and the Crushed Red Pepper. Take care not to burn the Crushed Red Pepper or Garlic, and stir everything occasionally until the Garlic becomes slightly golden. Next, add the Anchovies. Allow them to melt into the oil. This should take 3 or 4 minutes. Feel free to stir a bit to help them along. Once Anchovies have dissolved, add the drained Cauliflower Florets into the skillet. Toss everything to combine. Lower the flame to the lowest possible setting while your pasta finishes cooking. 

Once Pasta is ready, drain it in a colander reserving about a 1/2 cup of Pasta Water. Pour drained Pasta into the Cauliflower skillet and toss. Add a couple of Tablespoons of Pasta Water and turn the flame back up to medium. Cook a bit longer until the liquid boils away and thickens. Stir in Parsley and toss. Turn off the flame. Season carefully with Salt (remember that Anchovies can be salty already) and liberally with Black Pepper. Drizzle with good quality Olive Oil. Lastly, feel free to add additional Crushed Red Pepper if you like. Serve and enjoy!  

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The Best Thing I Ate in Spain (So Far)

My husband and I recently ate our way through Madrid and Barcelona. It was my first time in Spain, though I've been all around Europe, and his second trip since his days backpacking on a Eurorail pass more than 10 years ago.

In general, we've been making an effort to travel more, and we are trying to squeeze a lot in before the blessing of children benches us for the next 18 or so years. 
Lots of anticipation was associated with this vacation, and it only increased as each person we told about our upcoming adventure gushed about how amazing the food would be.
 
Our time in Barcelona and Madrid did not disappoint. Besides the gorgeous scenery       

Madrid, Photo: Neurotic Kitchen

amazing architecture, and friendly people, the food really is fantastic. And once we found out that you can order a good bottle of wine
at dinner for the American equivalent of ten dollars, we were pretty much over the moon.

As Americans, and as New Yorkers, we just couldn't get our minds around this wonder.  Yet after so many cheap bottles of wine, our minds weren't really that useful anyway. Yes, we overindulged in the omnipresent Jamon Iberico, sampled delicious tapas all over each city, and ate a few really good paellas.

Ham Selection at the Market in Barcelona, Photo: NK

Seafood Paella in Barcelona, Photo: NK

I'm a fan of tapas. I have problems making decisions - especially food related decisions. I like the idea of small bites and lots of variety. I am also a fan of Europe. I am always so much calmer there. Sure, it has something to do with being away from work and other obligations, but the relaxed atmosphere and positive outlook of the people really does my soul good.  Europe just seems to me like the way life should be (see: affordable wine and encouraged daytime napping). 

Barcelona by Night, Photo: Neurotic Kitchen

Now I realize we only experienced a small part of the vast cuisine of Spain (primarily Catalonian and Castilian), and my hope is that we can return to further explore the countryside and get a wider sampling of the uniquely regional cuisines. 

But for now, here are some of my my favorite tastes from our trip:

Croquetas de Bacalao

Oh so good. Creamy, potatoey, perfectly fried.  We ate them at Casa Labra in Madrid - a bar founded in 1860 known for being a preferred meeting place for the Socialist Party. The bar is also famous for superior cod croquettes. They deserve the hype.   

Click HERE for more info on Casa Labra.

  

Bacalao Croquettes, Photo: NK

Rabbit Paella

Next, I sampled Rabbit for the first time, one of the last small game meats I'd not yet tried. I was sad about it, and I remember being scandalized when my first generation Italian roommate brought Rabbit leftovers home from Easter break back in college.  As I enjoyed it, all I could think of was the story my dad once told me of how his parents gave his pet bunny, Sir Archibald, to the neighbors to eat. Nowadays, you could get on Oprah with a childhood trauma like that. But times were tough back then and people did what they had to do. This wasn't Archie, I told myself.  The dish, despite my guilt, was delicious. 

Anchovies

Anchovy Canape, Tuna & Caperberries: NK 

A much maligned food here in the States, but a food I just love. The Spanish are unabashed about their fondness for anchovies. They are everywhere. Anchovies are delicious as a tapa, served simply on bread with or without other accompaniments. I was in heaven. 

Huevos Estrellados

Served as a side dish or meal, this dish was a revelation. We enjoyed it as part of our meal at El Lando in Madrid. It is one of their specialties but it is widely available elsewhere. The components include a simple combination of crispy, perfectly cooked fries topped with a few soft-cooked eggs.  Your waiter will usually cut the eggs table-side resulting in the runny yolk seeping into the crevices of all that golden potato goodness. Who knew two such familiar flavors and textures could result in the ultimate soul-warming comfort food? As with many foods that are simply prepared, the magic comes from perfect execution. 

Pan Con Tomate 

Ubiquitous in Spain, this tapa is simply garlic rubbed bread topped with shredded tomato flesh. Delicious. 

We tried restaurants that ranged from very traditional to slightly more modernized interpretations on tapas, Catalana in Barcelona being an example of the latter. No complaints.

Fried Baby Squid and Shrimp Skewer at Catalana, Barcelona, Photo: NK

But my favorite taste experience in Spain was the most simple. It was waiting at the table for us when we arrived for dinner at El Lando

I am not sure what this dish was officially called, but I would describe it as a Tomato Carpaccio.

I learned it is something that they put on all the tables and only remove if you ask. Not knowing this wasn't simply a gratis snack I told the waiter, "of course we'll eat it!" when he asked if we wanted it, after which point my husband predictably grumbled that they would charge us. Anyways, best mistake ever. 

The tomato dish, a plate of paper-thin slices of tomatoes laid out in a row, sprinkled with lemon juice and a fruity olive oil, then finished with sea salt, was one of the most delicious things I had in Spain.  My whole meal at El Lando was actually fantastic, including my entree of delicate baby lamb chops, our huevos estrellados side, the tasty (and free) dessert of pastries and chocolate, and the wonderful service thoughout that enhanced the experience... but I just couldn't get past these tomatoes.

So there you have it, folks - our one splurge at an upscale restaurant (one we later learned is a favorite of almost every A-list American Celebrity because of its food and secluded paparazzi-free location) and I am stuck on the tomatoes. More about El Lando Madrid HERE. 

I really am a simple girl at heart. 

Back home in wintery NYC it is most certainly not tomato season, but I was  itching to recreate this dish from the moment we landed.  I've not found a recipe for Tomato Carpaccio that is as simple as what was presented to us at El Lando, so I winged it.  Despite it being December, I managed to find two nice looking beefsteak tomatoes and let them ripen for about three days.  

Below is what I came up with, and I have to say, it tasted quite similar.                      

Sometimes the best things in life are the simplest.

Tomato Carpaccio, Photo: Neurotic Kitchen

NK's Tomato "Carpaccio"

Serves 2-3

Ingredients:

2 ripe beefsteak tomatos

3 tablespoons good quality extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons of fresh squeezed lemon juice

sea salt and pepper to taste 

Method:

Thinly slice the tomatoes into paper thin rounds. A smooth-edged steak knife actually works well for this. Place the slices in one layer, edges overlapping a bit, on a platter.  Sprinkle with lemon juice and leave to sit about a half hour for the flavors to blend. When ready to serve season liberally with sea salt and pepper, and finish by drizzling oil on top. Enjoy!

Though it pained us to say Adios to Espagna, we came away with many great memories and culinary experiences.  As part of my own personal goals, I intend to learn more about the cuisine of Spain and try new dishes in NK. Lucky for me, I have a thoughtful friend named Rhianne who gifted me with one of the best reviewed and comprehensive books on Spanish cooking: 

Photo: Neurotic Kitchen

I am excited to read it and cook from it, and I promise to share!