Passport to Italy - Pasta di San Giovanello

Lately, I've been thinking more and more about returning to Italy. Maybe it's this seemingly endless cold weather we've been experiencing, or perhaps that unshakeable late winter feeling of needing a vacation! Whatever the cause, I take great pleasure in conjuring up memories of last summer's trip to Rome and the Amalfi coast. 

Me and the Mr. overlooking gorgeous Positano 

Since European travel doesn't seem to be in the cards this year, those remote Southern Italian towns I dream of exploring will have to come to me by way of my dinner plate (not a bad way to do some imaginary travel). 

I decided not to include today's delicious vegetarian pasta as part of our series, Italian Pasta Classics, which, if you've been following, is the feature where I share the recipes for Italy's most loved and famed pasta dishes. This is because "Pasta di San Giovanello", a specialty native to Puglia (the region that makes up the heel of the Italian boot), seems to fly just a bit under the radar. 

Pasta di San Giovanello - Tomato Sauce, Breadcrumbs, Melted Anchovy, Garlic and Almonds, Photo: NK 

Thanks to an extremely informal poll of a small group of food-savvy native Southern Italians in my circle, I determined that though just a few people had heard of the dish, there was significant disagreement about its true ingredients. One Sicilian-born friend observed that he knew Pasta di San Giovanello to be something more like Puttanesca sauce. 

Mario Batali, from whom we borrow today's recipe, does indeed note that the components of this hearty and satisfying Southern Italian dish are hotly contested (particularly today's addition of sliced almonds). What follows below is the recipe Mario describes as his favorite iteration of the dish to date, one that he enjoyed in a small osteria in the town of Brindisi on the very important feast day this pasta is named for - the eve of the feast of St. John the Baptist (aka: San Giovanni Battista or San Giovanello) which is marked on June 24th, though celebrations vary worldwide, some taking place on the eve of the feast, some the day of, and others continuing for several! Rest assured, though ingredients vary, this dish is just delicious. It's also a great way to stretch a small portion of leftover tomato sauce (just 1.5 cups is needed for a dish that feeds 4 to 6 people). And away we go: 

St. John's Eve Pasta/Pasta di San Giovanello
Recipe by Mario Batali, from Molto Italiano 
Serves 6

Ingredients:
3/4 Cup Sliced Blanched Almonds
1/2 Cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 Cups fresh or store-bought plain Bread Crumbs 
4 fine quality Anchovies, salt (or oil) packed, chopped
Black Pepper
1 White Onion, finely chopped
1 large clove Garlic, finely chopped 
1.5 Cups Tomato Sauce of your choice or Mario's Recipe HERE 
8 Fresh Basil Leaves, chiffonade (aka cut into thin ribbons).
1 Pound long, wide pasta such as Lasagnette, Pappardelle or (Mafalde - what we used) 


Method: 

Almond and Bread Crumb Mixture, Photo: NK

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil - use about 2 tablespoons salt. 

2. Meanwhile, in a large saute pan, gently toast the sliced almonds and 1 Tablespoon of olive oil over a medium flame until nuts begin to brown just a bit. Remove almonds to a plate. 

3. In the remaining oil, toast the bread crumbs, stirring them often until the become golden brown and somewhat crispy. Combine breadcrumbs and almonds in a bowl and set aside. 

4. Add 2 Tablespoons additional olive oil to the pan you used for the breadcrumbs. Reduce heat to medium-low and stir in the anchovies, using your spoon to crush them into the oil so they begin to dissolve. Stir until they melt into the oil, this should take a minute or so. Pour the anchovy and oil mixture over the breadcrumbs and almond mix and season it with black pepper before setting aside. 

Sauce Coming Together, Photo: NK 

5. Add the remaining 5 Tablespoons olive oil to the pan. Add the onion and garlic and cook over medium-low heat until onions soften but do not brown. Stir occasionally, about 2-3 minutes. 

6. Add the tomato sauce to the pan with the onion and bring the mixture to a "brisk simmer" and let it cook until the sauce has reduced by about one third in volume. Add basil ribbons and turn heat off. 

7. By this time your pasta water should be boiling. Add the pasta to the water and cook according to package directions until just al dente. Drain the pasta and add to the pan with the sauce. Add half of the almond and breadcrumb mixture and toss to combine well. 

8. Transfer the pasta to warmed serving bowls and sprinkle them with the leftover breadcrumb mixture. Serve right away! 

Ramped Up - Spaghetti with Ramps, Breadcrumbs, & Poached Egg

Since foraging is the new farming, I thought ramps would be a timely addition to NK's vegetable hall of fame. Not familiar with ramps?

Also known as Wild Leeks, ramps are a foraged green available for a very short period in early spring. A relative of the onion, they grow wild across the US, especially in the Appalachian region. In flavor, they are pungent and garlicky with both edible leaves and bulbs. For even more Neurotic Kitchen Ramp Recipes click HERE.

Ramps are also pretty attractive:

Ramps, Photo: NK

Like most pretty things, they become that much more alluring when they're hard to get. Said to be the earliest green of the spring season, the scarcity of ramps definitely adds to their veggie celeb status. If you look around this time of year, you'll surely see ramps popping up on farm-to-table menus everywhere. If you're lucky enough to have a good farmers market or gourmet produce shop, they're likely to show up during that fleeting window in early April. They have a cult following among chefs and at home cooks alike, as evidenced by this article about retailers price gouging for these sought after beauties: Price Gouging of Ramps! 


Still want more ramp edification? Check out this concise overview of Ramps, courtesy of the Organic Authority: All About Ramps


And this article from a few years back explores the reasons behind the popularity of Ramps, both with chefs and everyday gourmands - Time U.S: For Foodies, Ramps are the New Arugula

~Last April was my first ramp rodeo, and with this newly discovered ingredient, I decided to make Mario Batali's Spaghetti With Ramps. Ramps do well when simply prepared.  Their springy flavor is pronounced and definitely translates best to the palate with minimal interference from competing tastes. Mario's recipe was great, and in the subsequent weeks, I was inspired to buy up as many bunches of ramps as I could so we could enjoy them while they lasted. In general, ramps can be prepared in a similar manner as you would leeks or scallions. They taste fantastic when brushed with oil and simply grilled, or ground into a pesto, and even when pickled (an ideal way to make ramps last past their short seasonal window). Make ramps while the sun shines, I always say...

This year, I decided I would remake the Batali recipe with a few tweaks:

1 - Adding breadcrumbs to amp up the textural complexity of the dish.
2 - Adding a runny, poached egg, because, if you ask me, nothing is better than a runny, poached egg.


First, let's make our Pangrattato, or breadcrumbs. The basic way to make homemade breadcrumbs is simply to let a good quality loaf of bread go stale over a few days. From there, you can grate it on a box grater until you have the desired amount of crumbs. If you are looking for a time-saving option, most good bakeries package and sell their fresh breadcrumbs. It's Monday, so you can bet I will not be grating bread on my own...Short cut time.


Pangrattato with Thyme
Adapted from Jamie Oliver

Makes Half a Cup (Serves 4+)

Ingredients: 
4 Tablespoons Olive Oil
1/2 cup Grated Bread Crumbs
2 Tablespoons chopped fresh Thyme Leaves


Method:
Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. 
Stir in breadcrumbs and thyme.
Fry for about 3 minutes, stirring often, until golden brown. Set aside.

Pangrattato Ingredients, Photo: NK

Golden Brown Pangrattato and Thyme, Photo: NK

Spaghetti with Ramps, Pangrattato and Poached Egg
Adapted from Mario Batali
Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 Lb Dry Spaghetti
3 Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil
8 Ounces Ramps - white bulb ends cut off and green leaves cut in half or thirds & set aside.
1/2 cup Pangrattato with Thyme* (recipe above)
4 Farm Fresh Organic Eggs (free range if possible)
1.5 Tablespoons Red Chili Flakes (less if you like it not so spicy)
2 Tablespoons Kosher Salt 

Method:

Boil Water in a large pasta pot and add 2 Tablespoons of Salt. 

Cook Spaghetti according to package directions.
While pasta is in the water cooking, heat Oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. 

Meanwhile put water in another high sided frying pan and bring to a slow boil ( for the poached eggs)

Next, Add the white root ends of the ramps to the skillet and saute until tender.

Add a bit of salt and chili flakes. 

Next, add the ramp greens and sauté until totally wilted - at least 5 minutes. Test the ramps by tasting. They can vary between tougher or more tender. If they are on the chewier side you can continue to cook.

Wilting the ramp leaves, Photo: NK

Once pasta is done, drain and add it to the skillet with the ramps. Reserve a half cup of pasta water in case you need to loosen the pasta later.Toss pasta with ramps to coat and turn heat down to the very lowest flame.

Pop your eggs into the slow boiling water and poach (adding a drop of vinegar to the water will help keep the eggs intact). Yolks should remain very soft.

Finished Spaghetti with Ramps, Thyme Pangrattato and Poached Egg, Photo: NK

To plate: Divide pasta among serving bowls, top with breadcrumbs, and carefully slide the poached egg onto the top of each bowl using a slotted spoon.
Serve right away.

Runny Egg Deliciousness, Photo: NK

~Special thanks to my master egg poacher, Mr. NK. 


Buon Appetito! 

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