Italian Pasta Classics - Fusilli Puttanesca

Happy New Year! It will shock no one that we resolve to cook and, more importantly, eat even more great food in 2015. I hope you'll come along for the ride. To this end, it is time again for Italian Pasta Classics, and this week, we are exploring one of most storied sauces Southern Italy has ever given us - Puttanesca. It also happens to be one of my top five favorite pasta preparations of all time - capers, olives, anchovies - I ask you, what's not to love!?  Now to the name, oh, the name. Yeesh. Puttanesca means, how to put this, in the style of the... not-so-nice-word for practicers of the proverbial "oldest profession." The more you know, as they say. 

Puttanesca Sauce, Photo: NK 

There are various accounts of origins of this deliciously easy dish. Probably the most ubiquitous is the anecdote that Pasta Puttanesca was something quickly thrown together from common pantry items, thus making it the ideal sustenance for these working women in between appointments. For my own part, I was surprised to learn that the dish, or at least the name, is relatively young. Several sources trace it only as far back as the middle of the 20th century (figures, right?).  As food lore goes, the popularly accepted story of Puttanesca is pretty well known, however I recently read a very interesting article that posited that despite the name, the dish may not have had much to do with sex workers at all. The author aptly notes that "Sex workers aren't the only people who appreciate quick, aromatic meals." Her theory on the origin has been batted around before, though less often. Check out the full article here. As you will note, there's not to an exact recipe for this dish conceived in imprecision, but I invite your to try our favorite iteration of it today. What you do after you eat it is most definitely your own business. Enjoy! 

Fusilli Puttanesca
Serves 4 as an entree 

Castelvetrano & Gaeta Olives, Photo: NK

Lightly Adapted from Lidia Bastianich
Ingredients:
1 35 Ounce Can whole San Marzano Tomatoes 
1 Pound Fusilli
3 Tablespoons Olive Oil plus more for drizzling
3 Large Garlic Cloves, smashed
1 Cup Gaeta or similar Olives
3/4 Cup Castelvetrano Olives, or other meaty, firm and bright green variety such as Cerignola
5-6 high quality Anchovy Fillets
1/2 Cup Italian Parsley, chopped
1/4 Cup Capers, rinsed
1 teaspoon Crushed Red Pepper
Toasted breadcrumbs (if you need a topping, but not usually necessary)

Method: 
1. Start a large pot of salted water boiling for the pasta. Add the Fusilli as soon as it comes to a boil and cook for 9 minutes for al dente. 

A sauce that is both gorgeous & flavorful, Photo: NK

2. Pit the Olives by smashing them with a heavy, flat object such as the bottom on the pan and removing the pit. Coarsely chop the Olives and set aside.

3. In a very large skillet, heat the oil over a medium flame. Add the Garlic Cloves and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes until they begin to brown. Place the Anchovies in the pan and break the up a bit using a wooden spoon. Add the Olives and cook 2 more minutes until they sizzle. Add the Tomatoes along with their juices and mash them using a potato masher until the large chunks are broken up. Add the Crushed Red Pepper.

4. Allow sauce to boil and then lower the heat to where it stays at an energetic simmer. Cook for 5 minutes and add the Capers. 

5. By this time your pasta should be done. Drain it through a colander and add the pasta to the skillet containing the sauce. Turn up the flame to medium and add the Parsley. Stir. Remove skillet from the flame and check for seasoning (a very little bit of salt may be needed) and serve! 
**Special thanks to Cousin Julie for the delicious homegrown and hand canned tomatoes!! 

Italian Pasta Classics - Cacio e Pepe

For the latest edition of our recurring series of essential Italian Pasta recipes (check out the first and second installments here), we are making possibly the simplest and most purely satisfying dish of them all - one that hails from Lazio region where you find the Eternal City of Rome: Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe or Spaghetti with Cheese and Pepper. 

Cacio e Pepe, a simple comfort food for your Italian Table, Photo: NK

Rome is known for its often rich and decadent (yet simple) pastas. Other traditional sauce preparations include the ever-popular Amatriciana, Gricia, and perhaps the most well known of the bunch, Carbonara. We enjoyed them all immensely during our gorgeous family trip to Rome just last year. What I wouldn't give to relive that week right about now!

Luckily, another flavorful pasta from Italy's Lazio region is just minutes (and less than 4 ingredients) away. Cacio e Pepe is a comfort dish that is packed with flavor thanks to Pecorino (sheep's milk) Cheese and spicy and freshly crushed black Peppercorn. Think of it as a stripped down Carbonara. 

Crush the peppercorns right before cooking, Photo:NK

But first things first - It's important to note that true Cacio e Pepe will have absolutely no oil, butter, or milk. Then how do you achieve the creaminess that makes this dish so effortlessly decadent? It's all in the execution. 

For a few pointers on how to perfect this exquisitely simple, rustic plate, we turn to Lidia Bastianich, who is, in my mind, a trusted source for all things authentically Italian.

Image and below text courtesy of Lidia's Italy

Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe
Adapted from Lidia Bastianich
Serves 4 adults as an entree, 6 as an appetizer course

Ingredients:
2 Cups of high quality Pecorino Romano Cheese (Lidia recommends a middle-aged Pecorino if possible, aged 8-10 months)-freshly grated from a wedge of cheese (usually at least 8-10 Ounces) plus more for garnish

2-4 teaspoons (by taste), Black Pepper. (Preferably whole Peppercorns crushed with a mortar and pestle or heavy object, or ground in a grinder). Of course, if you are pressed for time, pre-ground pepper is fine - the fresher the bottle the better. You can always add more pepper at the end - very peppery is a good thing! (Tip: I use a slightly lighter touch when serving kids but then add extra pepper to mine once it's on the plate.)

1 Lb fine quality dry Spaghetti - De Cecco brand  - in my opinion - is the the best commercially available dry pasta out there

Salt  (I like finely ground sea salt or Himalayan Pink Salt if you have it - but regular table salt works just fine!

It's all in how you mix it, Photo: NK

Method:
1. Prepare all your ingredients while water is boiling or before - crush the Pepper, grate the Pecorino, find your heatproof bowl, set out your Salt.

2. Set a pot of well salted water to boil.

3. Cook Spaghetti according to package directions, making sure it's al dente.
As pasta comes close to cooking, warm a large and heavy heat proof bowl. You can do this by ladling some hot pasta water into it and discarding just before you begin to use the bowl. Do not drain the pasta. 

4. Once Pasta is cooked (go for perfectly al dente, not more), use tongs to grasp it and transfer it to the warmed bowl, holding it over the pot to drain for a minute. 

5. Now, immediately add the grated Pecorino to the bowl right away, tossing the pasta quickly as you can, and continually sprinkle in the Pepper. As you toss using your tongs, add a tablespoonfuls of Pasta Water one at a time to moisten the Spaghetti and allow the Cheese to blend nicely. It should look a little creamy, not watery. Finally, add a big pinch of salt and give it a toss. Taste and add a little more if needed. To serve, you can grate a little extra cheese on top if you like and place more Pepper on the table as well. Serve immediately and very hot.
Buon appetito! 

Passport to Italy - Pasta di San Giovanello

Lately, I've been thinking more and more about returning to Italy. Maybe it's this seemingly endless cold weather we've been experiencing, or perhaps that unshakeable late winter feeling of needing a vacation! Whatever the cause, I take great pleasure in conjuring up memories of last summer's trip to Rome and the Amalfi coast. 

Me and the Mr. overlooking gorgeous Positano 

Since European travel doesn't seem to be in the cards this year, those remote Southern Italian towns I dream of exploring will have to come to me by way of my dinner plate (not a bad way to do some imaginary travel). 

I decided not to include today's delicious vegetarian pasta as part of our series, Italian Pasta Classics, which, if you've been following, is the feature where I share the recipes for Italy's most loved and famed pasta dishes. This is because "Pasta di San Giovanello", a specialty native to Puglia (the region that makes up the heel of the Italian boot), seems to fly just a bit under the radar. 

Pasta di San Giovanello - Tomato Sauce, Breadcrumbs, Melted Anchovy, Garlic and Almonds, Photo: NK 

Thanks to an extremely informal poll of a small group of food-savvy native Southern Italians in my circle, I determined that though just a few people had heard of the dish, there was significant disagreement about its true ingredients. One Sicilian-born friend observed that he knew Pasta di San Giovanello to be something more like Puttanesca sauce. 

Mario Batali, from whom we borrow today's recipe, does indeed note that the components of this hearty and satisfying Southern Italian dish are hotly contested (particularly today's addition of sliced almonds). What follows below is the recipe Mario describes as his favorite iteration of the dish to date, one that he enjoyed in a small osteria in the town of Brindisi on the very important feast day this pasta is named for - the eve of the feast of St. John the Baptist (aka: San Giovanni Battista or San Giovanello) which is marked on June 24th, though celebrations vary worldwide, some taking place on the eve of the feast, some the day of, and others continuing for several! Rest assured, though ingredients vary, this dish is just delicious. It's also a great way to stretch a small portion of leftover tomato sauce (just 1.5 cups is needed for a dish that feeds 4 to 6 people). And away we go: 

St. John's Eve Pasta/Pasta di San Giovanello
Recipe by Mario Batali, from Molto Italiano 
Serves 6

Ingredients:
3/4 Cup Sliced Blanched Almonds
1/2 Cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 Cups fresh or store-bought plain Bread Crumbs 
4 fine quality Anchovies, salt (or oil) packed, chopped
Black Pepper
1 White Onion, finely chopped
1 large clove Garlic, finely chopped 
1.5 Cups Tomato Sauce of your choice or Mario's Recipe HERE 
8 Fresh Basil Leaves, chiffonade (aka cut into thin ribbons).
1 Pound long, wide pasta such as Lasagnette, Pappardelle or (Mafalde - what we used) 


Method: 

Almond and Bread Crumb Mixture, Photo: NK

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil - use about 2 tablespoons salt. 

2. Meanwhile, in a large saute pan, gently toast the sliced almonds and 1 Tablespoon of olive oil over a medium flame until nuts begin to brown just a bit. Remove almonds to a plate. 

3. In the remaining oil, toast the bread crumbs, stirring them often until the become golden brown and somewhat crispy. Combine breadcrumbs and almonds in a bowl and set aside. 

4. Add 2 Tablespoons additional olive oil to the pan you used for the breadcrumbs. Reduce heat to medium-low and stir in the anchovies, using your spoon to crush them into the oil so they begin to dissolve. Stir until they melt into the oil, this should take a minute or so. Pour the anchovy and oil mixture over the breadcrumbs and almond mix and season it with black pepper before setting aside. 

Sauce Coming Together, Photo: NK 

5. Add the remaining 5 Tablespoons olive oil to the pan. Add the onion and garlic and cook over medium-low heat until onions soften but do not brown. Stir occasionally, about 2-3 minutes. 

6. Add the tomato sauce to the pan with the onion and bring the mixture to a "brisk simmer" and let it cook until the sauce has reduced by about one third in volume. Add basil ribbons and turn heat off. 

7. By this time your pasta water should be boiling. Add the pasta to the water and cook according to package directions until just al dente. Drain the pasta and add to the pan with the sauce. Add half of the almond and breadcrumb mixture and toss to combine well. 

8. Transfer the pasta to warmed serving bowls and sprinkle them with the leftover breadcrumb mixture. Serve right away! 

Italian Pasta Classics - Aglio Olio e Peperoncino

Photo: NK 

Welcome to Part II of our Italian Pasta Classics series, where we share the very best in traditional pasta dishes for your viewing and eating pleasure.

Check out Part I HERE.

Today, we want you to know about Aglio Olio e Peperoncino - or pasta with Olive Oil, Garlic and Crushed Red Pepper. This rustic, peasant meal has been claimed by much of Southern Italy. A few sources believe it originated in Abruzzo, but the jury is still out. 

Let's just agree that this ever so simple dish belongs to the nation itself, and that in the pantheon of authentic pasta recipes, it is most certainly one of the greats.

Anchovy haters: be brave.
The anchovy fillets melt into the oil as you warm it and become virtually undetectable. If you use good quality imported anchovy fillets, ideally packed in oil, I can assure you that the finished dish will have absolutely no fishy taste. The anchovies themselves lend a complexity to the flavors that is, I believe, absolutely essential. Still, you are more than welcome to make this recipe without them, but I happen to think you'll be missing out! Some (questionable) recipes also call for grated parmigiana or pecorino, but I don't recommend it.

You could make this dish with regular spaghetti, linguine, or any other long pasta. We opted for Spaghetti alla Chitarra. Cut on an implement called the Chitarra (it is strung with wire much like the eponymous guitar), the resulting pasta takes the form of long, thin ribbons with square, rather than rounded edges. Why make Aglio Olio e Peperoncino? It is easy, fast, delicious and cheap! Feeding a family of four for well under dollars 10 is no problem with this recipe. 
Buon appetito!

 ~This meal was made in loving memory of Grandma Peg who will be dearly missed. 

Photo: NK 

Aglio Olio e Peperoncino
Serves 4 

Ingredients:
1 Lb Spaghetti or other long pasta (we used Spaghetti alla Chitarra)
6 Tablespoons of Extra Virgin Olive Oil
7 Anchovy fillets packed in oil (imported) 
7 medium or large Garlic Cloves, minced
1/4 -1/2 teaspoon Crushed Red Pepper (less if you prefer mild spice)

2/3 Cup Italian Parsley, most of it finely chopped, a few sprigs reserved for garnish
Approximately 1/3 Cup Pasta Water
Salt
Black Pepper

Method:
1. Set a pot of salted pasta water to boil and then cook the pasta according to package instructions until it is almost al dente. Drain, reserving about a 1/2 cup of pasta water. 

2. In a very large skillet, warm the olive oil over a medium flame. Add the anchovy fillets and let them cook until they dissolve fully into the oil. You can use a wooden spoon to stir and help them along. 

3. Once anchovies have fully dissolved you can add the garlic. Lower the heat to low so that garlic does not burn. Add the crushed red pepper as well as the black pepper. Cook the garlic for a few minutes (about 3) taking care not to burn it. 

4. Add about a 1/3 cup pasta water to the pan. Add the cooked pasta, and toss on the parsley. Turn up the heat a bit and toss the pasta in the skillet for 1 or 2 minutes until everything is coated. Season with additional black pepper and taste for salt. Add more only if needed. Serve immediately with a sprig of parsley and enjoy!

Italian Pasta Classics - Pappardelle alla Boscaiola

Welcome to Neurotic Kitchen's newest feature - Italian Pasta Classics. Since we've shared quite a few of my favorite Traditional Pasta recipes, why not make it a regular thing?  A few examples -

Spaghetti all'Arrabiata

Pasta with Cauliflower

Aglio Olio e Peperoncino

and last but not least, my favorite,

Linguine & White Clam Sauce.

(For the entire NK Pasta Collection, check out our Recipe Index HERE.)

Today, I'd like to spotlight a really wonderful dish that I believe doesn't get nearly enough buzz - 

Pasta Boscaiola.

Boscaiola means "in the style of the Woodsman," There are many ways to make Boscaiola, and the traditional components are often disputed. There is, however, one key, non-negotiable ingredient in Boscaiola that everyone agrees on, and it is the one that best conjures the woodsy feeling of this dish, one of my all time favorite vegetables, Mushrooms. 

Italian Parsley and Mushrooms, Photo: NK

Generally, Boscaiola also includes Tomatoes. Some folks make it with a bit of Pancetta and even Peas. As you might imagine, this method is also very delicious. Still others insist that no Tomato should be involved whatsoever, and instead call for only a touch of Cream to tie the Mushroom and Pancetta together in a sauce. If you are looking for a richer and more stick-to-your-ribs dish, this variation is  great  as well - especially during the chill of winter.  

In contrast, our Boscaiola is somewhat purist in its simplicity; 

it's made using only Tomatoes, Parsley, Garlic, White Wine, Mushrooms and Pasta - which means it's also Meatless Monday ready. As is our custom at Neurotic Kitchen, our Boscaiola is relatively fast and very easy. Since I could write a whole post on my boundless obsession with Mushrooms, you can bet that our sauce will feature a very, shall we say, "healthy" helping of them. 

A few things to note before you begin:

Seasoning:
Seasoning is very important to this dish. And by seasoning I mean Salt and Black Pepper, not necessarily a lot, but do taste the sauce to make sure the end result is well flavored. A bit of Salt is important to make sure the Mushroom flavor pops. I add Crushed Red Pepper during the cooking process. What can I say, it's my favorite and I do think a hint of spice adds something.  

Pasta Choice:
For our Pasta, we chose Pappardelle, a wide, flat shaped noodle, but Boscaiola lends itself well to twisty pasta shapes such as Fusilli or Campanelle. Cavatelli or Stozzapretti are also good choices.  

Mushrooms:
Porcini Mushrooms are a customary part of most Boscaiola sauces. Buy them dried and reconstitute them in water for ten minutes before cooking. Porcini have a strong flavor so you only need an ounce or so of them in your Mushroom Mix. They are expensive though, and while they add deep flavor, your Boscaiola will still be quite tasty without them. I didn't happen to have Porcini on hand in the making of today's dish, but you could absolutely throw in an ounce or two to your Mushroom mix if you so choose. 

As far as the other Mushrooms, you'll be most pleased if you choose a mix of the wild varieties, or at least those types that are considered a step above regular White Button Mushrooms. These include: Oyster Mushrooms, Hen of the Woods (aka Maitake) Mushrooms, Chanterelles (also pricey), Shitake, Portabella, or Cremini. Any mix you are partial to will do. I like to have a variety of different shapes and chop the Mushrooms thickly so that you get nice meaty bites of each kind. 

Remember that Mushrooms shrink significantly when they cook.Since we are using  a whole pound in our dish, the amount may seem alarming at first, but they do cook down quite a bit. Either way, serve this wonderful dish to people who love Mushrooms and you'll have no problems. 

Pappardelle alla Boscaiola
Serves 3 as an entree   

Ingredients: 
1 Pound Mixed Fancy Mushrooms (we used Maitake, Oyster, Shitake and Cremini*)
14.5 Ounce Can of Diced Tomatoes, preferably organic (we like Muir Glen brand)
1/2 Cup White Wine (we used Pinot Grigio)
3 Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil 
5 Whole Garlic Cloves
1/2 Cup finely chopped Italian Parsley 
3/4 Pound Pappardelle or other Pasta (corkscrew varieties work especially well too)
Salt and Pepper
1/4 teaspoon Crushed Red Pepper
Grated Parmigiana Cheese - optional 

* There are a few great "Fancy Mushroom Blends" available at supermarkets that package several varieties of Mushroom in one. 

Method:
1. Set a pot of well-Salted water to boil for the Pasta. 

Photo: NK

Meanwhile, In a large skillet, heat the Olive Oil and Garlic Cloves over Medium Heat until Garlic begins to get slightly golden but not burnt. 

2. Add the canned Tomatoes, a few shakes of Salt, and about 5 turns of Freshly Ground Black Pepper. Add the White Wine and stir. Allow the mixture to cook for about 5 minutes until the liquids evaporate a bit. Now add the Mushrooms and Crushed Red Pepper. 

3. Allow to cook another 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. When finished, pick out the Garlic Cloves and discard. Stir in the Parsley and taste for seasoning, adding extra Salt and Pepper if desired.  

4. Once water is boiling, cook Pasta as directed. Drain and set aside until sauce is done, reserving some Pasta Water to loosen the noodles if they stick. Plate Pasta with the Boscaiola Sauce and garnish with Parsley Sprigs and an optional sprinkle of Parmigiana Cheese. 
Buon Appetito! 

Pappardelle alla Boscaiola, Photo: NK