Ramped Up - Spaghetti with Ramps, Breadcrumbs, & Poached Egg

Since foraging is the new farming, I thought ramps would be a timely addition to NK's vegetable hall of fame. Not familiar with ramps?

Also known as Wild Leeks, ramps are a foraged green available for a very short period in early spring. A relative of the onion, they grow wild across the US, especially in the Appalachian region. In flavor, they are pungent and garlicky with both edible leaves and bulbs. For even more Neurotic Kitchen Ramp Recipes click HERE.

Ramps are also pretty attractive:

Ramps, Photo: NK

Like most pretty things, they become that much more alluring when they're hard to get. Said to be the earliest green of the spring season, the scarcity of ramps definitely adds to their veggie celeb status. If you look around this time of year, you'll surely see ramps popping up on farm-to-table menus everywhere. If you're lucky enough to have a good farmers market or gourmet produce shop, they're likely to show up during that fleeting window in early April. They have a cult following among chefs and at home cooks alike, as evidenced by this article about retailers price gouging for these sought after beauties: Price Gouging of Ramps! 


Still want more ramp edification? Check out this concise overview of Ramps, courtesy of the Organic Authority: All About Ramps


And this article from a few years back explores the reasons behind the popularity of Ramps, both with chefs and everyday gourmands - Time U.S: For Foodies, Ramps are the New Arugula

~Last April was my first ramp rodeo, and with this newly discovered ingredient, I decided to make Mario Batali's Spaghetti With Ramps. Ramps do well when simply prepared.  Their springy flavor is pronounced and definitely translates best to the palate with minimal interference from competing tastes. Mario's recipe was great, and in the subsequent weeks, I was inspired to buy up as many bunches of ramps as I could so we could enjoy them while they lasted. In general, ramps can be prepared in a similar manner as you would leeks or scallions. They taste fantastic when brushed with oil and simply grilled, or ground into a pesto, and even when pickled (an ideal way to make ramps last past their short seasonal window). Make ramps while the sun shines, I always say...

This year, I decided I would remake the Batali recipe with a few tweaks:

1 - Adding breadcrumbs to amp up the textural complexity of the dish.
2 - Adding a runny, poached egg, because, if you ask me, nothing is better than a runny, poached egg.


First, let's make our Pangrattato, or breadcrumbs. The basic way to make homemade breadcrumbs is simply to let a good quality loaf of bread go stale over a few days. From there, you can grate it on a box grater until you have the desired amount of crumbs. If you are looking for a time-saving option, most good bakeries package and sell their fresh breadcrumbs. It's Monday, so you can bet I will not be grating bread on my own...Short cut time.


Pangrattato with Thyme
Adapted from Jamie Oliver

Makes Half a Cup (Serves 4+)

Ingredients: 
4 Tablespoons Olive Oil
1/2 cup Grated Bread Crumbs
2 Tablespoons chopped fresh Thyme Leaves


Method:
Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. 
Stir in breadcrumbs and thyme.
Fry for about 3 minutes, stirring often, until golden brown. Set aside.

Pangrattato Ingredients, Photo: NK

Golden Brown Pangrattato and Thyme, Photo: NK

Spaghetti with Ramps, Pangrattato and Poached Egg
Adapted from Mario Batali
Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 Lb Dry Spaghetti
3 Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil
8 Ounces Ramps - white bulb ends cut off and green leaves cut in half or thirds & set aside.
1/2 cup Pangrattato with Thyme* (recipe above)
4 Farm Fresh Organic Eggs (free range if possible)
1.5 Tablespoons Red Chili Flakes (less if you like it not so spicy)
2 Tablespoons Kosher Salt 

Method:

Boil Water in a large pasta pot and add 2 Tablespoons of Salt. 

Cook Spaghetti according to package directions.
While pasta is in the water cooking, heat Oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. 

Meanwhile put water in another high sided frying pan and bring to a slow boil ( for the poached eggs)

Next, Add the white root ends of the ramps to the skillet and saute until tender.

Add a bit of salt and chili flakes. 

Next, add the ramp greens and sauté until totally wilted - at least 5 minutes. Test the ramps by tasting. They can vary between tougher or more tender. If they are on the chewier side you can continue to cook.

Wilting the ramp leaves, Photo: NK

Once pasta is done, drain and add it to the skillet with the ramps. Reserve a half cup of pasta water in case you need to loosen the pasta later.Toss pasta with ramps to coat and turn heat down to the very lowest flame.

Pop your eggs into the slow boiling water and poach (adding a drop of vinegar to the water will help keep the eggs intact). Yolks should remain very soft.

Finished Spaghetti with Ramps, Thyme Pangrattato and Poached Egg, Photo: NK

To plate: Divide pasta among serving bowls, top with breadcrumbs, and carefully slide the poached egg onto the top of each bowl using a slotted spoon.
Serve right away.

Runny Egg Deliciousness, Photo: NK

~Special thanks to my master egg poacher, Mr. NK. 


Buon Appetito! 

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Sage Advice - Three Ways To Use A Versatile Herb

                                                                                                                                   Meet Sage...

Photo: Neurotic Kitchen

 
The accessible but pungent ancient Mediterranean herb with the friendly felt-like texture. 

With a soft, grey-green hue, sage makes a beautiful garnish, but its taste, distinct and earthy, makes it worthy of edible preparations. 


Sage is most often seen in homey dishes like oven roasted chicken.  Its very pronounced herbaceous flavor can overpower a dish, but when used sparingly, it's great.








Below, I've collected a few of my favorite recipes using sage, from a simple brown butter sauce, to an easy veggie side dish, to a crunchy sage garnish that heightens any humble dish to haute cuisine. 

Sage as a Sauce:

A popular way to incorporate sage into a sauce is by way of brown butter, often seen on pasta dishes such as pumpkin tortellini or butternut squash ravioli. Sage is a natural match to fall and winter vegetables, and sage brown butter sauce is a perfect addition to any pasta or dish that can stand on its own but could benefit from a buttery, savory kick that will not overpower its taste. Best of all, Sage Brown Butter Sauce is super easy and fast to make.

Sage Brown Butter Sauce

Adapted from Giada De Laurentiis

Serves 4

Ingredients: 

If preparing for pasta - 1 pound fresh pasta such as pumpkin or squash ravioli or tortellini. 
1 stick of unsalted butter*  
6 fresh sage leaves  
Large pinch grated nutmeg  
Optional Additions: 2 amaretti cookies, chopped hazelnuts, grated parmesan

*I've prepared this sauce for use over pasta using much less butter and it works just fine. Be sure to adjust your sage accordingly. To coat, simply toss pasta and butter sauce in a bowl to ensure sauce is thoroughly incorporated.

Method:

Wash and dry sage and tear the sage leaves into small pieces. 

In a small saute pan, melt the butter. 

Allow butter to begin sizzling and allow it to begin to brown – you should actually see it change to a golden color. 

Once this starts to occur, add sage leaves and fry for about 15-20 seconds. 

Remove pan from the heat and stir in nutmeg. 

Add a little salt and immediately pour butter sauce over the prepared pasta and sprinkle on any optional add-ons: chopped nuts (particularly hazelnuts), and grated amaretti cookies, or grated parmesan cheese.

Sage-Spiked Side Dish:

Roasted butternut squash with sage makes a nice accompaniment to oven baked meats such as pork or chicken.

Preparing the Squash and Sage, Photo: NK

Roasted Butternut Squash & Sage  
Adapted from Food and Wine

Serves 4

Ingredients:                                                                                           

2.5-3 lbs of butternut squash, peeled, and cut into a one inch dice.

Two tablespoons olive oil, 12 Whole Sage Leaves.
Black pepper and kosher salt.

Method:

Preheat the oven to 425°. In a bowl, toss the butternut squash with the olive oil and sage and season with salt and pepper. Lay the squash and sage on a baking sheet in one single layer. Roast in the oven for about 40 minutes tossing once half-way through, until tender and partially browned. 
Transfer to a bowl and serve.

Finished  Roasted Squash and Sage, Photo: NK

Sage as a crispy Garnish:

Fried Sage

Ingredients:

1 bunch fresh sage, or however much you desire for your recipe
1/4 cup olive oil
Coarse salt

Method:

Wash the desired amount of sage sprigs and leave to dry completely.

Pull off the leaves from the sprig.

Heat oil in a small, high sided pan over medium-high flame until hot.

Fry only up to 8 sage leaves at a time until crisp, 2–3 seconds.

Remove quickly using a fork or small metal strainer, and sprinkle generously with coarse salt.

Sage will crisp as it cools.

Next up, what does an Englishman know about Spaghetti All'Arrabiata? 

Apparently a lot. 

Spaghetti All'Arrabiata with Fried Sage, Photo: NK 

Take it from this Italian, Jamie's is one of the best versions of this spicy tomato sauce. I think the textural addition of fried, thyme scented breadcrumbs and crispy fried sage are what sends it over the top.

Jamie Oliver’s Spaghetti All'Arrabiata with Fried Sage

Adapted from the My Last Supper Cookbook by Melanie Dunea

Serves 4

Ingredients:

7 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling

2 dried red chilies finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, sliced thinly

1 red onion, finely chopped

3 14-oun cans of plum tomatoes, sieved

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 lb box of spaghetti

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

3 tablespoons stale bread crumbs

1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped

Fried sage leaves* Recipe above 

Method:

Heat about 5 tablespoons of the oil in a large sauté pan over low heat. 

Add the chilies, garlic and onion, cooking gently for about 3 minutes. 

Add the tomatoes and let them cook until the sauce is quite thick, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a large pan of salted water to a boil. Cook the spaghetti in the salted boiling water according to the packet instructions. Drain the pasta, reserving about 1/4 cup of the cooking water.

Fry up sage leaves according to above recipe if using. Set aside on paper towel.

Once the sauce has thickened, add the red vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Heat the remaining oil in another small pan over medium heat. 

Add the bread crumbs and thyme and fry until the bread crumbs are crispy, for about 3 minutes.

Add the drained pasta and the reserved pasta water to the sauce, and toss to coat. 
Drizzle with a bit of extra-virgin olive oil and serve with the breadcrumb and thyme mixture over the top. 
Finish with a garnish of fried sage leaves.