Eat The Season - Ramps, Three Ways

Thus begins Neurotic Kitchen's Third Annual Ramp post. Be sure to relive our other ramp adventures HERE, HERE, and HERE. Thanks in part to their short season once per year, these deliciously garlicky wild leeks enjoy some major hype. This also means you've got to grab up your ramps as soon as they hit the green markets (often in the middle of April). They're around for just four to six weeks so we made sure to get cooking right away. The result? Three meals using ramps and one very happy week.

Lemony Ramp Pasta With Rock Shrimp & Fried Capers, Photo: NK 

To start, we whipped up some Ramp Pizza. To make it, simply prep your homemade pizza and chop a few ramps (white and green parts) into half inch pieces. Sprinkle on top of your sauce and cheese and bake. Easy enough, right? If you'd like to get a bit more daring (but still prep dinner in under a half hour) we're sharing two easy ramp recipes for you to enjoy! As a rule, use versatile ramps wherever you might choose scallions or leeks, and you'll be a ramp believer before you know it. Enjoy!

Lemony Ramp Pasta With Rock Shrimp & Fried Capers

Inspired by Giada de Laurentiis

Serves 2-3 as an entree 

Ingredients: 

1/2 Pound Spaghetti

1/4 Cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil (plus an additional Tablespoon)

2 Tablespoons Capers, well rinsed and patted very dry

A bunch of about 12 Ramps, cleaned and sliced into 1/2 inch slices (white & green parts) +1 to 2 Ramp Greens cut into ribbons for an optional garnish (chiffonade)

1/2 Pound cleaned Wild Rock Shrimp (or regular Shrimp sliced into 1.2 inch pieces)

3 Heaping Tablespoons of freshly grated Parmigiana Cheese

Zest of 1 Large Lemon (organic if possible)

2 Tablespoons fresh Lemon Juice

Salt and Pepper

Method:

1. For the Spaghetti, set a large pot of salted water to boil. 

2. In a medium skillet over medium-low heat, warm the Olive Oil a minute or so until it is shimmering. Add the Capers (be careful because they may spit) and fry for about 2-3 minutes until browned (but not burnt) and crisp. Remove Capers with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on paper towel. 

3. Allow remaining oil to cool a minute before pouring into a heat-proof metal or ceramic bowl. Add the Lemon Zest and Lemon Juice to the bowl and stir. Set aside. 

4. Once water is boiling, prepare Spaghetti according to package instructions (al dente please :)).

5. Add another Tablespoon or so of Olive Oil to the skillet you used for the capers. Heat oil over medium-low heat. Add the Whites of the Ramps and cook, stirring for one minute. Now add the green parts of the Ramps and cook, stirring another 2-3 minutes. Move the ramps to one of the skillet and add the Rock Shrimp. Allow to cook untouched for 2 minutes, then flip them and let them cook another minute or so until opaque and cooked through. 

6. Once Spaghetti is finished, drain and return it to the pot. Add the Ramps and Shrimp Mixture to the Spaghetti, and then toss in the Lemon and Oil Mixture. Toss for a full minute. Add the Parmigiana Cheese and toss again. Taste for seasoning and add a tiny bit of Salt if needed (the Capers will provide salt as well) and Black Pepper. Plate the Pasta and top with equal portions of Fried Capers. Serve immediately and enjoy!

Next up - our rampy answer to fried rice - also starring Mr. NK's favorite - bacon. Thanks to my religious use of instant rice (I have limited patience, as you know), this meal comes together in fifteen minutes! I'd also call this a pretty casual recipe so I'll be presenting it as such. Use your imagination and add or subtract as you see fit.

Fried Brown Rice Bowl With Cucumber, Ramps & Bacon, Photo: NK 

Fried Brown Rice Bowl With Cucumber, Ramps & Bacon

Inspired by Food & Wine Magazine

Serves 2  

Ingredients: 

1 Medium Unwaxed Cucumber, well scrubbed and cut into thin slices (peeling optional)

16 ounces pre-cooked Brown Rice (we use Uncle Ben's Microwaveable Ready Rice - fast!)

6 Slices Organic Bacon, cut into 1/2 inch pieces

About 8 Ramps, White and Green Parts sliced into 1/4 inch pieces

1 Dried Red Chili, sliced

Sriracha

Black Sesame Seeds

Salt

Method:

1. In a large, heavy skillet (we used cast iron), cook the Bacon slices until crispy but not burnt - about 4 to 5 minutes. Remove Bacon to drain, reserving the fat in the pan. 

2. Pour off all but about 3 Tablespoons of the Bacon Fat. Add the Ramps and cook over medium heat, stirring, for about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the sliced Chile and Cucumber Slices. Toss until Cucumber softens a bit, about another 1 minute. Add the Brown Rice to the skillet and continue to toss over medium heat for about 2 minutes. Add some Sriracha to taste and toss again. You may need a bit of extra Salt and Pepper but you can decide that once you incorporate the already salty Bacon.

3. To Serve - plate the Rice, Ramp and Cucumber Mixture.  Top with portions of crispy Bacon and a good sprinkle of Black Sesame Seeds. If you have fresh Ramps left over use one or two for a nice green garnish. Serve with extra Sriracha and enjoy! Note: If you'd like to make this more of a true fried rice crack an egg into it before adding the bacon and stir until it has incorporated and fully cooked.  

Ramped Up - Spaghetti with Ramps, Breadcrumbs, & Poached Egg

Since foraging is the new farming, I thought ramps would be a timely addition to NK's vegetable hall of fame. Not familiar with ramps?

Also known as Wild Leeks, ramps are a foraged green available for a very short period in early spring. A relative of the onion, they grow wild across the US, especially in the Appalachian region. In flavor, they are pungent and garlicky with both edible leaves and bulbs. For even more Neurotic Kitchen Ramp Recipes click HERE.

Ramps are also pretty attractive:

Ramps, Photo: NK

Like most pretty things, they become that much more alluring when they're hard to get. Said to be the earliest green of the spring season, the scarcity of ramps definitely adds to their veggie celeb status. If you look around this time of year, you'll surely see ramps popping up on farm-to-table menus everywhere. If you're lucky enough to have a good farmers market or gourmet produce shop, they're likely to show up during that fleeting window in early April. They have a cult following among chefs and at home cooks alike, as evidenced by this article about retailers price gouging for these sought after beauties: Price Gouging of Ramps! 


Still want more ramp edification? Check out this concise overview of Ramps, courtesy of the Organic Authority: All About Ramps


And this article from a few years back explores the reasons behind the popularity of Ramps, both with chefs and everyday gourmands - Time U.S: For Foodies, Ramps are the New Arugula

~Last April was my first ramp rodeo, and with this newly discovered ingredient, I decided to make Mario Batali's Spaghetti With Ramps. Ramps do well when simply prepared.  Their springy flavor is pronounced and definitely translates best to the palate with minimal interference from competing tastes. Mario's recipe was great, and in the subsequent weeks, I was inspired to buy up as many bunches of ramps as I could so we could enjoy them while they lasted. In general, ramps can be prepared in a similar manner as you would leeks or scallions. They taste fantastic when brushed with oil and simply grilled, or ground into a pesto, and even when pickled (an ideal way to make ramps last past their short seasonal window). Make ramps while the sun shines, I always say...

This year, I decided I would remake the Batali recipe with a few tweaks:

1 - Adding breadcrumbs to amp up the textural complexity of the dish.
2 - Adding a runny, poached egg, because, if you ask me, nothing is better than a runny, poached egg.


First, let's make our Pangrattato, or breadcrumbs. The basic way to make homemade breadcrumbs is simply to let a good quality loaf of bread go stale over a few days. From there, you can grate it on a box grater until you have the desired amount of crumbs. If you are looking for a time-saving option, most good bakeries package and sell their fresh breadcrumbs. It's Monday, so you can bet I will not be grating bread on my own...Short cut time.


Pangrattato with Thyme
Adapted from Jamie Oliver

Makes Half a Cup (Serves 4+)

Ingredients: 
4 Tablespoons Olive Oil
1/2 cup Grated Bread Crumbs
2 Tablespoons chopped fresh Thyme Leaves


Method:
Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. 
Stir in breadcrumbs and thyme.
Fry for about 3 minutes, stirring often, until golden brown. Set aside.

Pangrattato Ingredients, Photo: NK

Golden Brown Pangrattato and Thyme, Photo: NK

Spaghetti with Ramps, Pangrattato and Poached Egg
Adapted from Mario Batali
Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 Lb Dry Spaghetti
3 Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil
8 Ounces Ramps - white bulb ends cut off and green leaves cut in half or thirds & set aside.
1/2 cup Pangrattato with Thyme* (recipe above)
4 Farm Fresh Organic Eggs (free range if possible)
1.5 Tablespoons Red Chili Flakes (less if you like it not so spicy)
2 Tablespoons Kosher Salt 

Method:

Boil Water in a large pasta pot and add 2 Tablespoons of Salt. 

Cook Spaghetti according to package directions.
While pasta is in the water cooking, heat Oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. 

Meanwhile put water in another high sided frying pan and bring to a slow boil ( for the poached eggs)

Next, Add the white root ends of the ramps to the skillet and saute until tender.

Add a bit of salt and chili flakes. 

Next, add the ramp greens and sauté until totally wilted - at least 5 minutes. Test the ramps by tasting. They can vary between tougher or more tender. If they are on the chewier side you can continue to cook.

Wilting the ramp leaves, Photo: NK

Once pasta is done, drain and add it to the skillet with the ramps. Reserve a half cup of pasta water in case you need to loosen the pasta later.Toss pasta with ramps to coat and turn heat down to the very lowest flame.

Pop your eggs into the slow boiling water and poach (adding a drop of vinegar to the water will help keep the eggs intact). Yolks should remain very soft.

Finished Spaghetti with Ramps, Thyme Pangrattato and Poached Egg, Photo: NK

To plate: Divide pasta among serving bowls, top with breadcrumbs, and carefully slide the poached egg onto the top of each bowl using a slotted spoon.
Serve right away.

Runny Egg Deliciousness, Photo: NK

~Special thanks to my master egg poacher, Mr. NK. 


Buon Appetito! 

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