California Dreaming - San Fran to LA Itinerary

Today over lunch at work, I listened as my coworker recounted some amazing adventures he had as a young man traveling in remote parts of Italy. I was so enjoying his stories, it made me feel a sort of ache in my heart that for the first time in a long time I didn't have an exciting trip on the calendar. We're parents now and life is a bit slower, even though I have faith we'll be back on the road soon - all three of us. 

I'd always wanted to do the scenic California Pacific Coast Highway road trip, and almost exactly two years ago this April, we finally got to it. 

I've also never missed an opportunity to share our travels in the five years I've been writing Neurotic Kitchen (check out Spain, France, Italy and San Francisco/Napa here), so I honestly can't account for why it took me so long to tell you about one of our favorite vacations here the States. Nonetheless, I'll chalk up today's trip down memory lane to both wanderlust and nostalgia. 

I would recommend the So-Cal road trip we took to anyone, so if you're looking for a ready-made itinerary with plenty of restaurants and things to do on it, you're in luck. 

The gorgeous Southern California Coast, Photo: NK

Now, back to spring of 2014; fresh off our jaunt to the San Francisco area, we were looking forward to returning to the golden state to explore its southern half, and this time we planned to just land at SFO before heading immediately south, ending up in Los Angeles. I will share our full itinerary in the hopes that you can benefit from our planning (this trip's timing and overall ease was great, as were all our accommodations and most every meal), and I'll of course include some of the fantastic food and scenery we took in on our weeklong west coast adventure. 

Day 1 - San Francisco to Palo Alto

The Iconic Stanford Campus, Palo Alto, CA. Photo: NK

• Land in San Fran and head just a bit South to Palo Alto - my techy husband loved being in Silicon Valley. Quick lunch pilgrimage to In and Out Burger - naturally!

• Dinner at Tamarine - an excellent, high-end and delicious contemporary Vietnamese restaurant.

• Stay We opted for the Crowne Plaza Cabana in Palo Alto - just a few miles from center of town and all the action, but a serviceable accommodation at a very fair price. Just fine after a long day of travel.  

Day 2-3 -Palo Alto to Monterey with a stop at Stanford University + lunch in Santa Cruz

• Attraction: It was time to set off for Southern Cali, but first a visit to the gorgeous grounds of Stanford University, a field day for an architecture buff. 

Lunch at super authentic Tacos Moreno, Photo: NK

• Lunch in Santa Cruz - Tacos Moreno. This place was excellent and authentic. I strongly preferred the burrito to my usual favorite, Tacos al Pastor. On the way out of town, we stopped by carnival-like Santa Cruz boardwalk, much to the delight of my Jersey-Boy husband. 

• Attraction: The gorgeously scenic 17 Mile Drive - Monterey, CA

Just one of the vistas from the 17 Mile Drive, Monterey Photo: NK 

Cannery Row, Photo: NK 

Photo: NK 

• Dinner Montrio Bistro - a bit off the strip in a less touristy part of Monterrey, this is a charming little bistro. 

• Stay at the lovely Monterey Plaza Hotel. We splurged on a bay view room. VERY nice hotel. We ate at the restaurant onsite one evening of our stay and it was quite good too. We enjoyed their Cioppino and this insane mudpie (right) for dessert.

• Attraction: The Famous Monterey Bay Aquarium and Cannery Row - famous for being the place where the Sardine Canning factories stood. The aquarium, set in a converted canning factory itself, was a great activity for the second day of our stay in Monterey, when the weather was a bit more foreboding. A short walk from our hotel, the aquarium is incredibly impressive. The site was also the setting to the the famous Steinbeck Novel, Cannery Row. Keep in mind this area is terribly touristy and commercial, but Monterey is beautiful and the aquarium is worth the trip.

Day 4 - Drive from Monterey to Cambria, by way of Big Sur

On the road again, this time through the mountains!

• Attraction: Big Sur - A stop at this very gorgeous, expansive national park is a must for any Southern California road trip.     

• Lunch Before arriving at our hike destination, we popped in for an early eunch at the Big Sur Roadhouse - AMAZING! I had the most delicious Kale Salad, and the place itself was just charming for super fresh farm to table food presented simply. 

Checking out the menu at Big Sur Roadhouse

Amazing food at Big Sur Roadhouse

• Hike!

• Refreshment As we drove out of the park, we passed a restaurant carved out of the hills called Nepenthe - thank you to my friend Mary for the recommendation! Nepenthe is one of the most scenic spots to enjoy a beverage and what looked to be some great (although a bit marked up) food. Make a visit to their super cool gift shop. I also came away with some great souvenirs here. 

• Stay at The Blue Dolphin Inn - Cambria, CA - Cambria is such a cute little unassuming beach town. I absolutely loved it. Cambria is a great place to stay if you want to be close to Hearst Castle, our destination for the following morning. I fell in love with Cambria because it feels removed, peaceful, and largely residential. The hotel was a lovely and well-appointed roadside accommodation with all the comforts of larger, fussier lodgings. The town offers a few pretty good restaurants too.

Hiking Big Sur, Photo: NK 

Day 5/6 - Depart Cambria for Santa Barbara, + a stop at Hearst Castle

Hearst Castle, Photo: NK 

• Attraction: Hearst Castle. A funky little shack at the top of a big hill. Seriously though, WOW. The bus ride to the mansion alone, its route marked by seemingly endless switchbacks and breathtaking panoramas, was worth the price of admission.

• Lunch We happened upon Ruddell's Smokehouse for a beachside Smoked Shrimp Taco in what appeared, at least to my east coast sensibilities,to be the quintessential surf town -  Cayucos, CA. Smoked Fish Tacos are really something! A new taste for me but a great one to be sure. 

Ruddel's Smokehouse, Cayucos, CA. Photo: NK

• Snack Swing next door to the Brown Butter Cookie Company for Brown Butter Sea Salt Cookies. Yeah. You really should. These cookies were very unique and totally worth the stop.

Smoked Shrimp Taco from Ruddell's Smokehouse, Photo: NK 

Cookies! Photo: NK

• Stay Harbor View Inn - Santa Barbara - a nice enough and affordable place with, you guessed it,  harbor view rooms in walking distance to nightlife, wharves and harbors. Didn't blow our socks off but very good for the price, a nice pool, and quite a good location! 

Santa Barbara, Photo: NK 

• Lunch Santa Barbara is the place for amazing, authentic taquerias. Our choice was Lilly's, and it did not disappoint. They served perhaps the best tacos of our trip. Lilly's gets quite the line outside with tourists and locals alike. It pays to go early. They are also known for utilizing all parts of the animal, whether pork, beef or chicken. Though I didn't try the Tongue Tacos, they were surely popular with those patrons in the know. 

Tacos at Lilly's in Santa Barbara, Photo: NK 

• Dinner Night one in Santa Barbara brought with it a fantastic Dinner at The Lark. Small plates, eclectic cuisine, and a really vibrant social scene thanks to lots of communal tables. We also enjoyed the very friendly service, excellent, creative cocktails and fun-to-watch open kitchen. Fabulous find and one of the best combinations of great food and ambiance on this trip. 

• The next morning, we took a long walk around the town to take in the local color before checking out and heading to LA. 

• Lunch My good friend Monica gave us the heads up that the place to get great seafood (and people watching) was the famous Brophy Brothers. She was right! Great lunch here before we headed off to LA for the last leg of our trip. 

Legit seafood at Brophy Brothers, Santa Barbara, Photo: NK 

Day 6-7 - Santa Barbara to Los Angeles

• Stay: The Beverly Hilton -What fun. Shiny and up to date but still evocative of mid-century LA - right on the famed Wilshire Boulevard. We got a sweet deal here on Jetsetter.com. Our room was tiny but gorgeous. I would definitely stay again!

• Dinner at famed Rick Bayless' Red O- In West Hollywood on Melrose, this is a good place to people watch. Our table by the window was prime real estate to watch Maseratis pull up to the valet, one by one, with fancy if not famous people spilling out their doors. We are big Bayless fans (he specializes in Mexican cuisine) and the ambiance was excellent. Food was good enough but for the price I expected it to be a bit more flawless. Still, Red O was worth a visit and the perfect place to feel like we were a part of a real LA scene. 

The Chateau Marmont Los Angeles, Photo: NK 

• Attraction: With a night flight back home, we had the whole day to explore LA. We began by taking a walk to Rodeo drive and as soon as we could justify it, a stop at Sprinkle's Cupcakes (they have a Cupcake ATM!) for a sweet treat of a snack. LOVED. The next priority for me was the Sunset Strip where we enjoyed seeing the haunts of our favorite performers (from The Doors to Led Zeppelin and beyond), from the trashy motel where Jim Morrison lived for years (the Motel Alta Cienega), to the infamous Chateau Marmont, The Whiskey a Go Go, and the Viper room, it was like a trip back in time for me. Somewhere along the way, we looked over our shoulder at the Hollywood Sign. The husband demanded one last lunch at In and Out Burger, and I did not protest. I think it's that crunchy, sweet onion they put on those burgers that really makes them. I am a fan. 

Manhattan Beach sunset before jetting home via LAX. Photo: NK 

• Attraction: As the evening rolled around, we headed to Manhattan Beach, which is closer than LA proper to the airport. A stroll on the boardwalk, a cocktail, and a long walk through town was a great way to take in the charms of this casual, young beach community, much more my speed than the Big City of Angeles. As the sun began to descend, we headed to return our rental car and check in at LAX. The next morning, as our redeye touched down on the east coast, my head flooded with great moments and my belly still very full from the stellar food and drink we enjoyed throughout. Our trip was a success. 

Vacation Restaurant Recap - Lowcountry Classics

We recently returned from a quick family jaunt to Hilton Head Island. We all had a really great time and, as usual, I made it a priority to sample everything this very pretty locale has to offer (read: eat all the food possible). 

Southern cooking fascinates me, and it is one cuisine that I don't attempt nearly enough or know as much as I would like about. With deeply rooted and diverse influences and an incredibly rich history, the possibilities are endless. One dish I make consistently is arguably one of the most well-loved Lowcountry staples - Collard Greens. In fact, it was our last trip to South Carolina that inspired me to try perfecting them. 

Collards! Photo: NK 

Read about our first South Carolina visit, and check out our favorite recipe for Collard Greens HERE.

In today's roundup, I'd like to tell you about two standout restaurants that you should visit if you are ever in the Hilton Head Island neck of the woods. They'll be on our list for a return trip for sure.   


Lucky Rooster Kitchen & Bar
What a find! This wonderful spot features lovely, slightly higher-end yet still down to earth ambiance (the island is otherwise pleasantly casual on the whole), and a really fantastic and warm staff. 

The cuisine can be described as modern Southern Food, often with subtly creative twists, or perhaps New American Cuisine with a a Southern flair.   

Now I am surely no Shrimp and Grits expert but their modernized version was DELICIOUS and PERFECT.

Shrimp & Grits get an overhaul at the fantastic Lucky Rooster in Hilton Head, so good! Photo: NK

My mom-in-law enjoyed their outrageously good Fried Chicken, and really the other dishes we had at this charming restaurant were standouts, including the Octopus appetizer and Fried Green Tomatoes served atop Pimiento Cheese (check out our favorite recipe for the latter HERE). 

Fried Green Tomatoes & Pimiento Cheese, Photo: NK

I've been known to enjoy a good cocktail here or there, so I especially savored the Martinez Cocktail that was expertly mixed just for me (a great combo of Gin, Maraschino Cherry Liqueur and Vermouth. All in all it was a great restaurant experience we're glad that we could share. 

Next up,

a more casual and cost-effective yet still delicious option, the charming:

A Lowcountry Backyard 
This super cute restaurant with, you guessed it, a very nice backyard where you'll find the bulk of their seating is a great spot to dine al fresco on traditional Southern food with a few twists. I ordered the special Fried Flounder over Cheesy Grit Cakes and it was to die! 

Special Fried Flounder at A Lowcountry Backyard in Hilton Head, Photo: NK

Combine that with a creative Margarita made with Moonshine and I was a happy gal. 

With a similarly warm waitstaff and some laid back and festive live music in the background, A Lowcountry Backyard turned out to be a great place to enjoy our last night of vacation. Thanks for sharing our our latest restaurant finds. We're making a concerted effort to get out of state more so we hope they'll be lots more restaurant tips to share with you. 

Stay tuned for my attempt at Fried Green Tomatoes coming to the blog soon. Our Southern Cooking inspiration is still going strong!

When in Rome - Culinary Recap: The Eternal City & Beyond

Ciao Italia!

As I sit here on my couch in my pajamas, it's hard to fathom that just last week I stood at the foot of such magnificence, Rome's breathtaking Trevi Fountain - 

Photo: NK 

Our tour guide, Giulio, made the Fontana di Trevi the first stop on our day tour of Rome. At that early morning hour, the crowds thin, the air ever so slightly cool, nearby rooftops splitting the sunbeams and casting the scene in a dramatic mosaic of light and shadow, this fountain knocked the wind right out of me.   One thing about being awestruck - you just don't see it coming. 

I'm not sure what I was expecting the Trevi to be like. Perhaps its heavy presence in movies and pop culture caused my suspicion that it might be disappointing. Audrey Hepburn's Roman Holiday a more distant memory, I think I may have been envisioning it as it appeared in some cheesy scene from the Kristen Bell box office turkey, When in Rome. But instead, there I was - feeling shocked as I instinctively hung my head to hide the tears welling up in my eyes. I managed to hold myself together long enough to turn my back and throw a coin over my shoulder, offering my wish up as the custom dictates. Maybe it was the energy of the place, the flood of so many people's wishes, hopes, dreams, fears. Or maybe it was the sheer beauty of the fountain - its impressive sculptural qualities, the water, crystal blue-green in the bright sunshine. I don't know. But it sure was something, and this experience was a just the beginning of so many amazing sights to come in a city that truly is ever so Eternal. 

Our voyage was brilliant from start to finish, and was undoubtedly made all the more special by the fact that we had our moms with us enjoying all the breathtaking antiquity and later, the sweeping vistas and turquoise waters of the Amalfi Coast. 

Back on my couch now, I am realizing that my socks don't match. :( 

Today's post will cover our dining and general food experiences in Rome and the Amalfi Coast area, specifically Sorrento and the town of Amalfi. I hope that you find this information helpful, and as always, I wish you happy travels and the chance to one day see the amazing sights that Italy has to offer. 

ROME
Understanding the different types of dining establishments in Italy is key to figuring out what types of dishes and ambiance to expect. To learn more, click HERE. 

Ristorante Matricianella

Recommended Dishes - Classic Carbonara (pictured top left), Eggplant Parmigiana (pictured bottom right), Fettucine con Funghi (mushrooms), and for dessert, they make a mean Affogato.

Delicious Affogato, Photo: NK 

Highlights - This excellent destination for typical Roman Fare was recommended to me by a real life Roman. As such, I had high hopes for it, and Matricianella did not disappoint.

What to know - Matricianella is a true trattoria, and  this festive neighborhood joint is frequented both by tourists and locals. Reservations are advised, but will not necessarily guarantee you access to the outdoor seating. The service was efficient if not a touch brusque (though at times, amusing). All in all, it was a great night. Stroll the nearby Spanish Steps afterwards to work off that pasta!

Buon appetito! 

Speaking of Dessert, there's a reason people come back from Italy raving about Gelato. It's delicious. Bonus Tip - Gelato is lower in both calories and fat as compared to typical American Ice Cream - as if you needed an excuse. If you're looking for ideas on where to go for a cup of this creamy goodness, we can vouch for: 

Giolitti

Highlights - 

Giolitti is a big operation in Rome's historical center that stays bustling late into the night. Not only do they offer innumerable Gelato flavors, but also cookies and other sweets, in addition to some sandwich and savory food options. 

What to Know - 

We found each flavor we tried (Pistachio, Straciatella and Coffee) to be extremely delicious, and the consistency of the Gelato was better than the two other places I had tried during our trip. First, head to the cash register to say what size cup or cone you are looking for, then head to the counter to collect your Gelato!

Photo, NK 

Sweet tooth not satisfied? We must thank our tour guide, Giulio, for introducing us to and encouraging a pit stop at 

Pompi

Photo: NK 

Highlights - 

Their awning proclaims that Pompi is "The King of Tiramisu." I can't say I have tasted enough of this treat to agree or disagree (it's not really my bag), but I can say that the Tiramisu they turn out is quite delicious. In addition to the "Classico," several other creative varieties are offered. These little cakes come to you neatly wrapped up in handy little cartons. A built in spoon allows you to enjoy Pompi's exceptionally fluffy, light, and flavorful Tiramisu on the go. 

What to Know - Again, head first to the cashier and place your order and pay. Then pick up your treat from behind the counter. We enjoyed the Classic and Pistachio (pictured) flavors. 
Fun Fact - the literal translation of Tiramisu is "pick me up." 

I dolci di Nonna Vincenza, Photo: NK 

Last but not least, we happened upon a beautiful and expansive pastry and sweet shop called I dolci di Nonna Vincenza. The shop, near the Campo de' Fiori area, is a lovely place to just browse or even pick up some souvenir candies to bring home. 

They also sell typical Italian Pastries and elaborate cakes. 

Marzipan, Photo: NK

The staff was exceptionally welcoming and the beautiful Marzipan they sell was absolutely delicious. 




I was partial to the little Marzipan Artichoke!

Of course there will be lots more sweets to talk about once we get to the Amalfi area, but before we leave Rome, here are some additional







Dishes worthy of an Honorable Mention:

The Penne Arrabiata at Casa Coppelle was spicy, excellent perfection. Though the restaurant's ambiance was some of the best we experienced, some of our meals were just a bit spotty. I do, however, recommend this dish. 

Penne Arrabiata at Nino, Photo: NK

I didn't think it would be possible to top but the Penne Arrabiata at Nino Ristorante, located a few blocks from the Spanish Steps, was fantastic. 

We actually had a superb meal at Nino, a restaurant focusing on Tuscan fare that has an old fashioned ambiance similar to Peter Luger (grumpy waiters included!), for those of you who are familiar with the famous NY Based Steakhouse. The Marinated Eggplant was also a standout - check out my version HERE.  

Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe with Zucchini
Photo: NK 

Our Roman tour guide brought us to lunch at one of his neighborhood haunts, a charming restaurant with a nice outdoor space called 
Pinsa e Buoi dei...





Here, we enjoyed several different types of pizza and my mother had a delicious dish of Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe with Zucchini that I happily helped her finish - this was my favorite Cacio e Pepe  (Pasta with Cheese and Pepper) of the trip. 

Amatriciana at Trilussa, Photo: NK

Finally, ordering Pasta Amatriciana is an absolute must when in Rome. Taverna Trilussa in Rome's vibrant, though gritty, Trastavere area (think the East Village on Saturday night) offered a notable version of this  dish from the Lazio region. Classic Amatriciana sauce incorporates salty, smokey Guanciale (pork cheek similar to Pancetta) in a tomato based sauce. OH yes. 

Fun twist - Trilussa serves their pastas it in your very own pot and tosses them tableside. We had a pretty good meal here with a few ups and downs, but it was clear by the number of locals in attendance that the hip and in the know seem to enjoy this place. I liked the true taverna ambiance complete with Prosciutto hanging from the ceiling, and the boisterous energy of the local patrons. 

Though terribly sad to leave Rome, we headed to Termini Station and hopped a speed train to Naples where we were then driven about 45 minutes to beautiful town of Sorrento that would serve as our home base for the next few days. From there, we visited the towns of Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello (our favorite). I hope you enjoy some of the highlights!  

AMALFI COAST/SORRENTO

The Amalfi Coast is pretty stunning.  

Overlooking Positano, Photo: NK 

Beautiful Tomatoes and Amalfi Lemons, Photo: NK 

Still, there's always that pressing question: what does this region have to offer me food-wise? 


The answer - The Amalfi area abounds with the most spectacular Produce (hands down the best Tomatoes I have ever had), 

giant Amalfi Lemons so sweet you can bite them, 

and finally, 

amazingly fresh Seafood.  



Now, let's mangia. 


La Tavernetta, Marina di Puolo Location (Just outside of Sorrento Center)

Vesuvius in the distance, La Tavernetta, Marina di Puolo, Photo: NK 

What to Know - This casual seaside restaurant in the quaint Marina di Puolo is slightly off the beaten path but so worth a visit. Family owned and run, there is another main location of La Tavernetta in Sorrento Town, but this sister restaurant, just about 15 minutes away, offers sea views and a free shuttle service to and from dinner.

Comically, said "shuttle" ended up being a tiny four door coupe driven by a jovial Italian woman who spoke little English and who, shall we say, had a lead foot. I don't know if this is the case all the time, or just during the beginning of the season when we visited, but despite the less than luxurious ride, our trip was totally worth it. 

La Tavernetta serves absolutely great seafood (which is so obviously fresh off the day boat), along with extremely well executed traditional trattoria fare and Pizzas. The menu offers much variety and dishes are all unfussy, letting the freshness of the produce and fish really take center stage. As an added bonus, this place is heavily frequented by locals, and it has a secluded feel to it that is really quite calming (especially after a white-knuckle ride!). Sit back, relax, and enjoy the sun setting over Vesuvio in the distance.  

Photo: NK 

Recommended Dishes - Everything. There was not a dish we did not enjoy. My Seafood Mixed Grill (bottom right) and Paccheri with Clams, Mussels, and Squid was to die (bottom left). My husband's Gnocchi alla Sorrentina was light and fluffy, and the Pizza Margherita that we shared was delicious - it was a real Margherita, complete with fresh Basil (which was curiously missing from all of the other Margherita's we ordered on the the trip)! As my mom-in-law will tell you, and I must agree, it just isn't Margherita without the Basil. Finally, La Tavernetta's Caprese Salad (top left) was the best we had in Rome or Sorrento. Heavenly Buffalo Mozzarella and outrageously ripe Tomatoes made this dish stand out from the pack. YUM 

Ristorante Bagni Delfino, Sorrento, Marina Grande 

Photo: NK 

What to Know - This place is a gem. Beautifully nestled in the busy Marina Grande, Il Delfino serves up excellent, fresh seafood in a casual yet chicly designed nautical setting. The restaurant is within a short, picturesque, yet steep walk from the town center (about 10 minutes). Wear flat shoes to navigate the sometimes unevenly cobbled streets and stairs. Outdoor seating is available but views of the bay are gorgeous from most tables. 

Recommended Dishes - Our Zuppa di Mussels (Cozze) were some of the best we've ever had, and the lemony Mixed Seafood Salad (right) was the stuff of dreams. Our mothers ordered Whole Sea Bass which was filleted tableside, simply flavored, and super fresh. My Linguine with White Clam Sauce (Vongole) was superb, though I am still partial to my own more broth-driven version (theirs was more Olive Oil based). 

Linguine with Clams at Il Delfino, Photo: NK 

Andrea Pansa Pasticceria, Town of Amalfi

Photo: NK 

Andrea Pansa is a beautiful pastry shop in the center of the Town of Amalfi. In business since 1830 (!), we dropped in to try a famous regional type of Sfogliatelle called Sfogliatelle Santa Rosa. Said to have originated in a convent, this version is unlike traditional Sfogliatelle in that it is filled with Cream rather than Ricotta, and includes Cherries. Look at it on the bottom left - delicious and majestic! Also try Delizie al Limone (bottom right) - another stellar sweet of the region that includes light sponge cake that is filled with Lemon Custard. 





 
Ok, that about does it for now. I hope you've enjoyed our Italian Culinary Roundup and that we've provided some helpful tips, or at least some cooking inspiration. 

Special Thanks - 
To our Moms - for sharing this wonderful adventure with us.

To True Italia - Our Travel Agent/Concierge Company. I highly recommend them and we've used their services twice both in Greece and Italy. Check out True Italia for a totally gorgeous and stress free vacation (they aren't paying me to say this). 

As a note, we stayed at the following hotels - the Sofitel Villa Borghese in Rome, and the Bellevue Syrene in Sorrento - I would recommend both to anyone. 
&
To Italy - for many great memories and, as always, endless culinary inspiration. 

Breathtaking Bernini Altar at St. Peter's Basilica, Photo: NK 

Rome, The Tevere Photo: NK 

The Pantheon, Photo: NK 

Rome by Night, near the Spanish Steps. Photo: NK 

The Colosseum, Photo: NK 

Aqueduct near the Appian Way, Photo: NK  

Ceiling in the Vatican Museum,  Photo: NK

Approaching Sorrento, Photo: NK 

Sunset Over Marina Grande, Sorrento. Photo: NK 

View from the Amalfi Drive, Photo: NK

Cloister of Paradise, Cathedral of Amalfi, Amalfi Town - Photo: NK 

Lemons! Photo: NK 

The Beautiful Town of Ravello, Photo: NK

Arrivederci!