My Kind of Town - Chicago Culinary Highlights

Chicago's Navy Pier, Photo: NK

This past weekend a family wedding brought us to Chicago for the second time in as many years. Now I'm not easy to impress, but I really like this town. 

Chicago's amazing architecture and dramatic lakeside setting are pretty breathtaking, and on both visits, I was surprised by how much this hard-nosed New Yorker enjoyed that fabled Midwestern charm from the locals. 

Our trip was both busy and fun. First, we attended our cousin's very lovely wedding, after which we were lucky enough to have some time to link up with two sets of friends from town.

From the wedding cocktail hour - where the most adorable Mini Mac 'n Cheeses were served -

Creative Cocktail Mac 'n Cheese, Photo:NK

 



to an uber-popular local restaurant's house made made Pork Rinds, 

 

My Main Squeeze and NK's resident Pork Connoisseur, Photo: NK

  








 we made sure to eat our way 
 through the Windy City 

  but good. 

In particular, we visited two really good restaurants that I'd like to tell you about.

Oh, and at least one bar. There's always a bar.  

First,

The Publican 

Meal: Brunch

Cuisine: New American/ Gastropub Fare 

Location: Chicago's Meatpacking District (apparently they have one too!)  

What we ate: Let me preface this by saying there were four of us :)

1/2 Dozen Oysters - all different varieties!

Side of Ramp Hash Browns

Pretzel with Pimiento Cheese

Smoked Arctic Char with Feta Yogurt

Pork Schnitzel

Soft Shell Crab Sandwich

Several Fantastic Bloody Mary's + Beer Backs and a side of Pork Rinds

Overall Thoughts: The Publican is super popular for a reason. It's pretty delicious and the menu is definitely appealing to the tasteful omnivore. Try an exceptionally flavorful Bloody Mary with a Beer Back ( a complimentary beer pairing that comes with the drink - I learned this is a midwestern thing- good idea guys, good idea). Pork Rinds were a fun novelty, and Publican's Oysters on the half shell were super fresh. All of our entrees were great and really well executed, and the atmosphere is boisterous and fun.

Reservations recommended. 

Special thanks to Marina and David for showing us a great time! 

*On the remote chance you are still hungry, you can visit Publican Quality Meats, an upscale butcher right next door that offers a cafe too. Both places were good enough for Bourdain, so of course, they're good enough for me - check out clips of Tony's visit to the Publican locations HERE.

Next up, our second set of amazing foodie friends took us out that same evening to a great place called:

The Bristol

Meal: Dinner

Cuisine: Farm to Table/American

Location: Bucktown

What we ate: Again, we were a party of four - which was handy because The Bristol's menu is best enjoyed family style. Happily, the portions are neither overly priced or unmanageably huge as can sometimes be the case with this dining format. Since I love variety, it was fun to order several starters and entrees and share them all. Note that their menu changes frequently, but here goes:

Apple Salad with Manchego and Hazelnuts

Head-on Prawns a la Plancha

Pork Loin Tonnato

Duck Fat Fries with Garlic Aioli

Raviolo with Ricotta, Egg Yolk and Brown Butter

Cavatelli Bolognese

Roasted Half Chicken with Dill Spaetzle

Pork Porterhouse with Dried Cherry and Guanciale

Basque Cake 

Overall Thoughts: The folks at The Bristol mix a really good drink and offer a variety of creative cocktails. They're the perfect thing to wet your appetite for some wonderful food. There was no dish that I didn't enjoy, but the Chicken did not quite live up to the waiter's hype. The Duck Fat Fries were insanely good. The Giant Raviolo with a runny egg inside was yummy and rich. The waiter recommended we order their famous Monkey Bread to sop of the Egg (this was a *brilliant* idea). The Bristol's food is visually beautiful.The Pork Loin Tonnato starter, Cavatelli Bolognese, and the Pork Porterhouse were standouts for me. Delicious, delicious. Now, I would have liked to have taken more pictures of our dishes but the place is cozy and moodily lit. I didn't want to be "that guy" with the obnoxious flash. The staff is extremely attentive and knowledgeable. In contrast to the folks at Publican (where there's a touch of the toocoolforschool/blase/hipster vibe), they are also exceptionally warm and friendly.  To finish, we ordered the Basque Cake on the server's recommendation. I have to say, it was one of the richest and most satisfyingly delicious desserts I've had in a long time. Imagine a light and fluffy pound cake that's been soaked in buttery goodness, and I mean that in the best possible way. One of these cakes was plenty of dessert for four. We had a great meal and enjoyed wonderful company all day. 

Finally, an honorable mention goes to a new-ish Small Plates Lunch + Dinner locale where we cooled our heels and enjoyed some well-crafted cocktails pre-dinner. The Red Door in Bucktown has been open just over a year and it's adorable. Though I can't vouch for the food as we only had drinks there, we all enjoyed several very good cocktails and a comprehensive beer and wine selection. The bar area was friendly and welcoming, and the dark wooded, edison-bulbed ambiance was enhanced by a friendly mixologist who chatted us up.

Photo by Tommie Nguyen courtesy of The Red Door

Check the place out if you're in the nabe!

This concludes our Culinary recap of Chi-Town. Special thanks to our foodie friends and family for a great, Windy City weekend. Tune in next week for a Chicago-inspired recipe - can you guess which classic we'll be cooking up?

Until next time!
                                           

Lightened Up Fish & Chips - Potato Chip Crusted Cod + Malt Vinegar Reduction

Fish and Chips with Malt Vinegar is a classic dish best known for its popularity in the British Isles. Its timeless appeal is not accidental.  A nice, firm White Fish (typically Cod or Haddock) enrobed in crispy deep fried batter usually sounds pretty good to me. Of course, Fish and Chips is hardly a figure-friendly dish, but is there a way to make it a bit less rich? Turns out that Salt and Vinegar Chips (the ONLY Chip flavor as far as I'm concerned) are the key to satisfying your Fish and Chips craving without a deep-fryer. The second key is of course not to eat the remainder of the bag - but they are so tempting! 

Salt and Vinegar Potato Chip Crusted "Fish & Chips" with Lemon Parsley Potatoes and Malt Vinegar Reduction
Photo: NK 

To guard against this inevitability I bought two single-serve bags of Salt and Vinegar Chips. We all know I have zero self-control and the two bags contained just the right amount for this recipe's crispy Crust. Depending on how coated you'd like your Fillets, you can even use less crumb topping. 

Since the "Chips" in classic Fish and Chips are really just the British way of referring to French Fries, today's answer to this component of the meal will instead be fast-cooking Fingerling Potatoes brightened up by Lemon Zest, Parsley and tossed in only a small amount of Oil. They might not be real "Chips" but they are pretty tasty and definitely easy so we're invoking some creative license here. Finally, to tie everything together, Classic Malt Vinegar gets an update by being reduced down to a syrupy drizzle. The Vinegar Reduction can be made even a few days ahead and the Potatoes are cooked quickly, just before the fish - believe it or not, even without advanced preparation you can have this dish ready in just about 45 minutes to 1 hour. We hope you enjoy our slightly lighter update of a classic guilty pleasure.


Timing this Recipe & Order of Preparation:

Start to finish, you can prep and cook this dish and all its accompaniments in 45 min to 1 hour. Cook time is only about 35 minutes total for Potato Side Dish and Fish. Malt Vinegar Reduction can be made in advance or as the oven preheats (it takes 10 minutes or so) - Here's how and when to do it all:

Prep and chop all ingredients for the Potatoes. 

Make the Malt Vinegar Reduction ahead if you have time, or make it while the oven is preheating for the Potatoes (500 degrees).

Make the Potatoes. Prep all Fish Ingredients while Potatoes cook. When Potatoes are finished, lower oven to 400 degrees for the Fish and set the Potatoes aside. They can be served at room temperature or reheated one or two minutes before Fish is done. In fact you could pop them back in the oven for the last minute or two that the Fish cooks. 

Make the Fish and finish it a minute or two under the Broiler to achieve a nice golden brown crust. Serve with a drizzle of Malt Vinegar Reduction on the Fish and extra on the side. Enjoy!  


Salt and Vinegar Potato Chip Crusted Cod & Potatoes with Malt Vinegar Reduction
Adapted from Cooking Light
Serves 2 

Ingredients:
2 - 6 to 8 Ounce Cod Fillets

Salt and Pepper

1 Recipe Lemon Parsley Fingerling Potatoes* (recipe follows)
1 Recipe Malt Vinegar Reduction* (recipe follows)
About 2 Cups of Salt and Vinegar Flavored Kettle Chips
1/4 teaspoon Hot Smoked Spanish Paprika or Regular Paprika
2 heaping teaspoons Light or Fat Free Mayonnaise
Parchment Paper

Method: 
Make the Malt Vinegar Reduction. (Can be done a day or two in advance if you like)
Make the Lemon Parsley Fingerling Potatoes. Both recipes are below.

For the Fish, Preheat oven to 400.
Crush Potato Chips into fine crumbs by placing them in a plastic bag and smacking them with a blunt object. Sprinkle Paprika into the Potato Chip Crumbs and combine. 

Place Cod Fillets on a piece of Parchment in a Baking Dish.

Season Cod Fillets lightly with a pinch of Salt and some Pepper

Evenly spread 1 teaspoon or so of Light Mayonnaise evenly over each Cod Fillet.

Preparing the Cod, Photo: NK

Gently press Potato Chip Crumbs all over each Fillet, covering the top of them completely.

Bake for 10-12 minutes until somewhat firm and opaque. 

Turn on Broiler and finish the Fish for 1.5 minutes under the Broiler to brown the crust. Keep an eye on it so it doesn't burn. Fish is done when it is easily flaked off with a fork. 

Serve immediately with Fingerling Potatoes on the side and a drizzle of Malt Vinegar Reduction over the Fish. Serve extra Malt Vinegar Reduction on the side as well. 
Enjoy! 


Malt Vinegar Reduction
Makes enough for at least 6 Servings of Fish 
(Keeps in the fridge for a few days and can be made a day or more in advance)

Ingredients:
1 teaspoon White Sugar
3/4 Cup Malt Vinegar
1 Tablespoon Beer (Optional)

Method:
In a small pot, bring ingredients to a gentle boil. Allow to boil slowly, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced to about a third of the volume. Once reduced, the liquid should become very syrup and spoon should be coated. This will take about 8-10 minutes. Be sure to watch the Vinegar cook the whole time. It's easy to go from syrup to shellac and totally ruin your vinegar and pan. Once desired consistency is achieved, set aside Vinegar Reduction in a heatproof vessel to cool. 

Lemon Parsley Fingerling Potatoes

Lemon Parsley Roasted Fingerling Potatoes, Photo:NK

Serves 2-3

Ingredients: 
1 Pound Fingerling Potatoes
Kosher Salt
Black Pepper
1/4 finely chopped Italian Parsley
2 teaspoons Olive Oil
1 Tablespoon Lemon Zest

Method:
Preheat oven to 500. 

Toss Potatoes in Oil and place in a baking pan.

Sprinkle with Kosher Salt and Pepper. 

Bake for 22 minutes until tender and golden, shaking the pan once in a while to rotate Potatoes. 

When cooked, toss in the Lemon Zest and Parsley. These can be served at room temperature or rewarmed slightly for a minute or two when ready to serve. 


Enjoy!

Test Kitchen - New York Times Trini-Chinese Chicken

In Today's post, we'll be sharing the results of a recipe we've been dying to try after reading about it a New York Times Magazine article titled "East Meets West Indies."

Trini-Chinese Chicken, Photo: NK

Here is Sam Sifton's description of this very delicious dish:

"Chinese-style chicken is a dish you can find all over Trinidad and within the diaspora that has followed the nation’s emergence from British rule. The skin is fried into a lacquered mahogany. The meat beneath it tastes of five-spice, ginger and soy and is generally accompanied by a hum of oyster sauce mixed with the zing of the pickled Scotch-bonnet-pepper sauce that is seemingly omnipresent on the island’s tables."
- New York Times Magazine

As Sifton points out, Trini-Chinese Chicken is really a fusion recipe with flavor influences that come from Trinidad's Chinese population of indentured servants in the 19th Century.


A few things to note should you decide to try Trini-Chinese Chicken:

Unless you have an amazing frying setup - a deep fryer or those clever little screens that prevent oil spatter - there will be a mess in your kitchen. Achieving that mahogany color that Sifton mentions takes some doing - and by doing I mean very hot oil.

Our cooking took just over 20 minutes. I'd say 23. We had some particularly plump Drums and Thighs. I didn't use Wings because I never find them that meaty. Overall, I would recommend testing one of the larger Chicken pieces about 18 minutes in. Some of the smaller pieces may be done before the others, so you can also feel free to remove them once they are no longer pink in the middle and their juices run clear when pierced. 

I would say that this is a great dish to serve for company were it not for the fact that my kitchen became an unholy mess during its making. Also, I had to make a point of keeping a safe distance from the pan since oil spatter was a problem. It may make sense to split the Chicken into two very deep pans to minimize this issue. 

Was it all worth it? Surely. 

The Results:  After not much deliberation, our verdict was that this dish was extremely tasty and definitely worth making again and again. Predictably, my husband and I gobbled this Chicken up with reckless abandon. I even enjoyed the leftovers twice and they heated up nicely in the microwave. As far as presentation, it's a winner that looks dramatic and mouthwatering on a large platter. Use garnishes to add color (we chose Cilantro and the recommended sliced Scallions) and serve with extra sauce on the side and extra Matouk's Hot Sauce if you are, like me, a shameless spice hound. 
 
Trini-Chinese Chicken
From the New York Times

Serves 4 to 6 

 

Ingredients:

8 to 10 Chicken Thighs, Legs and Wings, about 2 1/2 to 3 pounds total (we omitted wings) 

 

2 Tablespoons Five-Spice Powder  

 

3 Limes 

3 Tablespoons soy sauce 

1 2-inch knob Ginger Root, peeled and minced (we used 2 teaspoons Dried Ginger) 

1/2 cup neutral oil, like Canola or Grapeseed 

2 Tablespoons Sesame Oil 

1/2 Cup Oyster Sauce 

1 to 3 Tablespoons Scotch-bonnet-pepper sauce, ideally Matouk’s Soca, to taste

Freshly ground Black Pepper 

1/4 Cup chopped Scallions, for garnish

Cilantro, for another optional garnish

Method:

In a large, nonreactive bowl, toss the chicken with five-spice powder, then with the juice of 2 of the limes, the soy sauce and the ginger. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes and up to 6 hours.

Heat oils in a large skillet over medium-high heat. There should be at least 1/4 inch of oil in the pan. When the oil is hot, remove chicken from marinade, allowing excess marinade to drip back into the bowl, and fry, in batches if necessary to not crowd the pan, turning the pieces frequently, until well browned and cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the dipping sauce. Combine oyster sauce, a tablespoon of the Scotch-bonnet-pepper sauce and the juice of the remaining lime and stir to combine. Adjust seasonings with more hot sauce, lime juice and freshly ground black pepper to taste.

Garnish with scallions and serve with white or fried rice, with a drizzle of the sauce over each piece of chicken and the remaining sauce on the side.

Cinco de Mayo Fiesta - Tacos Carne Asada

Cinco de Mayo is upon us again, and you don't have to tell me twice to revel with Margarita in hand. Each year, we look forward to celebrating the richness of Mexican culture, and naturally, enjoying the food and drink of the people is our first priority. 

Tacos Carne Asada with Tomatillo Pico de Gallo and Queso Blanco, Photo: NK

In case you've ever wondered, the historical importance of the 5th of May is that on that day in 1862, the Battle of Puebla was fought during the Franco-Mexican War. In it, the Mexicans emerged victorious against the French. Cinco de Mayo is such a hit in the States, you may be surprised to learn that it's actually comparatively minor in Mexico itself. This year, we've decided to cook up some Carne Asada for our at home fiesta.  

Mixing up our Tomatillo Pico de Gallo, NK

Carne Asada is basically grilled Steak - Mexican Barbecue, if you will. You can serve it Tacos or on its own. The traditional method of preparation includes marinating the Steak in a Lime/Citrus marinade, then grilling it on very high heat before slicing it up thin. 

For today's meal, we've adapted Tyler Florence's tasty Carne Asada recipe by creating an extra garlicky Mojo marinade and incorporating Tomatillos in our Pico de Gallo for a twist on the traditional Tomato base. To finish, we'll sprinkle these hearty Tacos with a mellow, salty Mexican Cheese (Queso Blanco), and very likely wash them down with an ice cold Tecate. If you enjoy this recipe as much as we do, it'll be back on your plate well before next year. 

Enjoy and happy Cinco de Mayo! 

What you need: A ridged Grill Pan or Outdoor Barbecue Grill 
What to know: The prepping and chopping for all three components of this recipe  (Mojo, Pico de Gallo, and Steak) will only take about 25 minutes but the marinating required to make the most flavorful Carne Asada will take between 1 to 7 hours. 
*Do not marinate Steak in the Mojo for more than 7 hours. The acids in the Mojo will break down the Steak and make the texture unappealing. We split the difference and let our Steak sit for 3 hours and it was just delicious. 

Also - don't even think of touching your eyes or face after you slice Jalapenos. No matter how much you wash your hands, you can cause your eyes to burn. If you have plastic gloves or can avoid directly touching the Pepper when slicing, all the better.  Be safe and enjoy! 

Tacos Carne Asada
Adapted from Tyler Florence
Serves 4 (2 Tacos Per Person)

Ingredients:
2 Pounds Skirt Steak 
1 recipe Easy Blender Mojo (recipe follows below)
Olive Oil for greasing the Outdoor Grill or Grill Pan 
Kosher Salt
Black Pepper

~8 or 16 small Corn Tortillas (7 inches) - choose 16 if you would like to "double wrap" your Tacos - this makes them heartier and is your best bet if you are serving 4 hungry people. Doubling the Tacos also prevents the juices from dripping as much. Up to you and your appetite. Truth be told, my husband and I ate all 4 servings of this ourselves... 

1/4 White Onion, chopped, for serving (optional) 
1/2 a Heart of Romaine Lettuce, cut into think ribbons
1 Cup Tomatillo Pico de Gallo (recipe follows) 
1/3 Cup Shredded Queso Blanco or Cotija Cheese (or sub in any other Mexican Cheese)
4 Limes Cut into Wedges for serving 
Extra Hot Sauces of your choice for serving - we love El Yucateco and Cholula 

Method:
Prepare your Blender Mojo. 

Lay the Skirt Steak in a large tupperware container or covered tray. Alternately, you can place in a gallon sized ZipLoc. Pour Mojo Sauce over Steak and cover tightly and allow to Marinate between 1 and 7 hours. Do not marinate more than 7 hours as acids will break down the meat and make the texture mushy. 

Prepare your Tomatillo Pico de Gallo. You'll want it to sit at least 30 minutes before using so flavors can blend. 

Preheat an Outdoor Grill or Grill Pan Over medium high heat. Brush Pan or Grill with a small amount of Oil to prevent sticking. 

Remove Steak from Mojo Marinade and season with Salt and Pepper on both sides. Cook for 5-6 minutes per side for Medium Rare. Check meat for doneness and allow to sit for 5 minutes before slicing into very thin strips diagonally against the grain of the meat. 
Slice strips in half again if you choose (about 3 inches long each). 

Warm Tortillas about 30 seconds on each side on the grill or a dry skillet. They should be toasty but also still bendable. 

To assemble your Tacos, lay about 4 ounces of Steak down the middle of the Taco center (whether you are using double or single Taco wrappers) and sprinkle with some Romaine Lettuce, White Onion, and Cheese. Top each Taco with a spoonful of the Tomatillo Pico de Gallo. Serve with Lime Wedges for squeezing and Cilantro Garnish. Don't forget the extra Hot Sauce! Enjoy!! 

Easy Blender Mojo
Adapted from Tyler Florence
Yields about 1 1/4 Cup

Ingredients:

Marinating the Skirt Steak in Mojo, Photo: NK

5 Garlic Cloves
1 Jalapeño
1/2 Cup Fresh Cilantro 
1/4 Cup Fresh Lime Juice
1/2 Cup Orange Juice 
2 Tablespoons White Vinegar
1/3 Cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil 

~To Prepare: Simply blend all ingredients in a blender or mini food processor! Quick and easy. Note: To prepare without a blender, finely mince all the dry ingredients and mash them with a mortar and pestle before adding the liquid ingredients. 



Tomatillo Pico De Gallo 
Adapted from Tyler Florence
Serves 4-6

Ingredients:
3 Medium Sized or 6-7 Small Tomatillos (Mediums will be about the size of a plum tomato), chopped
1/2 Medium Red Onion, chopped
3 Scallions, White and Green Parts thinly sliced
1 Jalapeno, seeded and minced
3 Garlic Cloves, minced 
1/4 Cup Fresh Cilantro Leaves, Chopped 
3 Tablespoons Lime Juice
1/4 Cup Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
1 teaspoon Kosher Salt
2-3 Drops of your favorite Hot Sauce
1/4 teaspoon Honey or Agave Syrup

~To Prepare: Mix all ingredients in a bowl and let sit for a half hour to 3 hours to allow flavors to mingle. 

Tomatillo Pico de Gallo, Shredded Romaine, and Queso Blanco, Photo: NK

ENJOY!